Home DIY

@Pantsmaster

We often have tool box talks with site operatives around PPE, RPE and respirator face fitting.

FFP1, FFP2, and FFP3 have different levels of protection depending on the level of protection the wearer requires. In a nutshell, the higher the level of the FFP respirator, the higher the protection against these airborne irritants, with FFP3 having the highest level of protection. No respirator can achieve 100% efficiency due to potential leakage around the face seal, valve (if present), and through filter penetration. Therefore, it's crucial to undergo a proper fit test and maintain a clean-shaven face to optimize the mask's fit

I hope this helps

https://www.hse.gov.uk/respiratory-protective-equipment/fit-testing-basics.htm

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jsp-force-8-medium-mask-respirator-with-press-to-check-filters-p3/1863f

As a first furniture project I was going to make some Rietveld inspired Lounge Sofas like the Hay ones for our garden. Like This
145x19mm planed larch because I found some for cheap (relatively).

What screws would you use to attach the 1.2m seat and back sections to the arms?
Hay use dowel and maybe confirmat(?) screws, looking at the instructions. So I could do the same.
Or could I get away with just 8x80mm Stainless Screws, like Spax Universal T20 partial thread, or similar

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does anyone have the full ring bound readers digest for DIY?

I'd say just use nice screws. Stainless torx makes sense. But 8x80 is massive, I'd say you don't need that size, 5x60 should be plenty for what I see on the drawing. Predrill, maybe pre sinking (🤔) isn't necessary.

In one sense if it's left outside it's deterioration will have nothing to do with your workmanship - so on the other you'd maybe want a selection of different size timber to join in securing methods that allow a little movement.. - its a tough project

I made one of these a few years ago using pressure treated 2x4s and deck screws. Agricultural but bomb proof.

https://www.construct101.com/2x4-bench-plans-step-by-step-material-list/

Looking for advice regarding front door safety...

The door frame has the pictured SKG*** Multi-point lock, which looks ok..?

But the cylinder is a Tigris Premier 3 that does not oozes confidence...

Is it worth upgrading the cylinder? If so, what would be something much safer to replace with?

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I would say a lock with dimpled key, like Masterlock or Banham is a minimum requirement considering how easy the normal type are to bump and open. Sadly home invaders are likely to kick your door in rather than pick the lock, unless you live in a spy novel.

Reinforcements like a London bar and hinge bolts are a good defense.

8x80 stainless screws will cost a fortune.

At that size I'd just use timber frame screws from Screwfix or B&Q

I’ve just spent ages seshing this shit, and ended up buying 2x ‘keyed-alike’ Evva 4KS cylinders from Safelocks.

The 4KS lock is apparently much more secure than Banham (which are easy to pick for a dimple lock and grossly overpriced), Avocet etc, and Safelocks still sell them for sane prices.

I also wouldn’t get a Banham as they just scream “rob me” to anyone on the street.

Looks like the handle plate you posted already includes a security escutcheon, which helps prevent snapping/drilling attacks.

As @Airhead says, unless you have a commonly-pickable lock, then it’s brute force you need to secure against.

Whatever you do though, if someone really wants to get in, they will, and there’s not much you can truly do about it.

But the cylinder is a Tigris Premier 3 that does not oozes confidence...

The Tigris Premier3 range of cylinders is tested to BS EN 1303 grade 6 in both durability and security, which is the highest grade within this standard

Sounds pretty good to me. Although if you actually look at the criteria for getting the grade 6, it's a fairly low achievement. Virtually all 6 pin cylinders available could meet this.

TS007 3*, Sold Secure Diamond accredited are much higher standards.

Lots of the restricted keyway options with a unique key card/registered owner system are geared towards preventing your nanny, maid, guest, staff from copying their key without your consent. Then robbing you a at some point in the future.

Dimpled keys aren't invincible, as the reduced pin height available often comprises the pick resistance... see Ultion Vs Lock Picking Lawyer.

Avocet Attack or ABS are decent and not too costly. Yes you can probably get "better" but they can all be defeated relatively easily with the correct tools!

Sagulator tells me a 2.4 x 0.8m MFC top will have unacceptable sag, but I can attach it to some wall mounted shelf upright at roughly 800mm intervals along the back edge (as well as post legs on the front corners) - it will be fine right?

Reinforcements like a London bar and hinge bolts are a good defense

If the door frame takes them, this and / or a birmingham bar. Used to occasionally pop doors at work, properly reinforced ones were a pain and could take multiple strikes which a burglar probably wouldn’t keep doing. Without reinforcement on the frame it was how far down the hallway did the strike plate go.
We would only get a lock picked if we didn’t want the owner to know we’d been in - brute force for the win.

When I was robbed in London they kicked one of the panels on the wooden door in, on the front door to the flat.

More shower questions, apologies.

I'm fitting this unit and the inlets won't seal properly. I've boshed a load of water hawk in there which improved it but hasn't fixed it. Everywhere I've read said that should fix it.
The washer can't sit under the threads like you see on a flexi hose etc, the inlet is like a half-moon going into the unit; it has to go over the threads. I spent far too long trying all the different washers available at Screwfix to no avail, they're all sized at OD.
It's two G¾" inlets. The G½" outlet seems to be fine.

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Tape them

I used tape first, about 15 wraps. The joints were spitting water.
This attempt is the entire thread covered in water hawk, plus more at the seal, before reassembling.

Does it have an olive?

Thanks to all for answering my questions upthread, appreciated. Plans adjusted accordingly, within the limits of my competence.

Painting a pebbledash house - is there a reason not to DIY it, other than how long it might take?

When I helped my dad many moons ago, it was very messy. Use a brush not a roller and make sure to put down sheets for the splatter.

If the two inlet pipes are tightened in the photo, there's a difference in the threads showing under the compression nuts. The left middle union looks like the inline coupler below it, whilst the bottom union has almost no threads showing.

As Sumo questions, does the bottom one have an olive? If so, have you over tightened it and crushed the copper pipe.

You'll be able to see which join is leaking in that setup, is it the olive/15mm side, or coming out between the mixer unit and the 3/4" thread?

No olive on the ¾" inlet. That's definitely the one that's leaking.

100% I've crushed the olive in the 15mm joint but it's not the problem. Just went a bit overkill, some of life's stresses got to me a bit yesterday!

I'll remake the relevant 15mm copper section then when I reassemble I'm going to go absolutely ham with the PTFE tape.

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Yep, 3/4" side will likely just need more tape, it needs to bind before you reach the end of the thread.

No doubt you already know this, but check the tape wrapping direction too.