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• #552
I'd be concerned that would just make it easier for thieves to steal everything, should they get through whatever it's locked to. I guess I could put it up on bricks and remove the wheels for full urban slum vibes.
Speaking of planning, it really boils my piss how ignorant my LA seem to be of the fact that secure bike storage is an essential part of encouraging active travel. Not even annoyed at the developers, they're obviously going to do the bare minimum, but given there's loads of copy on the development website about how active travel is central to the design of this 'garden city' you'd think the planners would consider where the hell people are going to store bikes and that maybe a 2x3 shiplap shed isn't the one. Guess I could just replace the stock shed with an Asgard or add it to the garden, but new build gardens aren't exactly expansive to start with.
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• #553
Tell me about interlocking rubber floor tiles!
I erected (fnar) an Asguard Gladiator 7' * 7' a month ago and slowly moving everything over from my old wooden shed which is soon to be demolished.
I went with the osb subfloor but as I'll be moving a grassy mower and other things in and out frequently, feel like I need something more that's easily wipeable. What are the decent brands of interlocking floor tiles? Anyone else done this? -
• #554
Unfortunately Pragmasis is closing down, a really top provider of serious security kit: https://mailchi.mp/a5133acba02a/important-pragmasis-update-13435079?e=b199b7959b
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• #555
Sorry don't know but interested in the answer.
I have my own question re insulation / boarding up a shed, using insulation in the form of say thermal insulation board versus the type of insulation silver/super foil that is attached to the shed walls.
I suppose my question is are there options or do I need all of these?
Option 1: silver foil on back of featherboard, one inch gap, OSB mounted on wall studding. Do I need thermal insulation board here as well?
Option 2: Thermal insulation board on back of featherboard, OSB mounted on wall studding. Is the gap still required? Does it matter if it is one side or the other of the thermal insulation board? Is there any need for the super foil?
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• #556
I vote for option 2 but leave the gap between the insulation and the featherboard. That way you can allow airflow and have space for any water that may get through the feather board or roof to drain out.
Will the shed be heated or cooled or are you just trying to reduce the temperature swings? -
• #557
Thanks, seems sensible. Nope not heated or cooled although it does have electricity. Simply trying to reduce temp swings as you suggest.
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• #558
+1 for option 2. Option 1 is a snake oil, won't do anything or next to nothing. Website doesn't even provide the thermal conductivity of the material..
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• #559
real shame that :-(
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• #560
thanks, useful information.
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• #561
25mm steel chain! Other than anchoring a small ship or securing an expensive tractor somewhere remote, I can’t see many use cases for a chain that thick where the chain justifies its expense.
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• #562
work
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• #563
Now we desperately need a sequence of what you get up to in the shed. :)
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• #564
I can’t see the video :( Cana never get .mov to work, iPhone/chrome
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• #565
Download through safari - played from there for me
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• #566
Sick shed
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• #567
Ah yes, me too. Dunno why QT exported as mov, was downscaling from an hd mp4. Thanks for trying
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• #568
sequence
Mostly failing to fix things
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• #569
Any recommendations for shed builders? It would be bespoke (triangular to fit under steps that come down from the roof terrace) so I don’t think I’ll find anything kit-type to fit, and I think pure DIY is a bit beyond my woodworking skills.
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• #570
Re my previous question on interlocking rubber floor tiles, I ended up going for the Duramat Durastud 50cm tiles with ramps and corners. Lovely stuff and so satisfying to put together.
https://duramat.co.uk/product/durastud-black/
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• #571
It should a simple job for a carpenter/roofer or general builder.
DIY is certainly possible. But time and tools are issue. Watch a few youtube videos, see how you feel about it. -
• #572
I think it's tools that will let me down - all my wood tools (drills aside) are hand tools, so it's hard work and that's where inaccuracy creeps in.
I agree it's worth watching a few videos though - DIY would save a few quid!
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• #573
I think you'd be surprised quite how much DIY would save. I'm currently considering an 8m x 3.5m DIY build, and its currently looking like a DIY build will save me at least 20k, even factoring in buying all the right power tools. It's a big time commitment, though.
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• #574
That is a big shed! I think the savings on a standard 6x8ft or something would be marginal depending on how you count the tool purchase costs.
Any of these jobs I think it's only worth doing DIY if you have the time to take your time and you actually enjoy doing it. I loved building my workshop, so I was happy that it took 3 months and I learned a lot in the process. I didn't enjoy laying our patio so was less thrilled about it taking a similar length of time and happily paid for help to get it done quicker. -
• #575
Yeah, I agree. Tool costs for smaller jobs often mean it's cheaper to pay a pro to do it. Similarly, sometimes you might just want to pay a pro to do it. A lot will depend on your financial position and the amount of free time you have. With 2 young children, I can imagine that in the future I'll be paying a pro to do a thing much more often than I did in the past!
Wow!
Now I have all the aspirations
Edit: can't spell while drunk