To all you sewing lot...

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  • Snagged my shirt on rose bush at the allotment. What's best way of "invisible" repair? Machine not hand preferably.


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  • Use an iron-on patch on the inside to close it. That’s the most invisible if done right.

  • Appreciated, thanks.

  • Iron on interfacing on the inside.
    Machine sew with matching thread - navy? zigzag (red) on each side of rip (black).

    1. do stitches close together for satin stitch
      or
    2. far apart, and then sew over the area to reinforce the edges with straight lines (blue)

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  • Does anyone know where I can buy YKK no3 double/twin zipper sliders in the UK?
    I can only find them in the US or Europe for a sensible price per unit.

    https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/3-ykk-zipper-slider-double-sided-non-locking/

    Alternatively does anyone want to split shipping from Adventure Expert or Ripstop By The Roll?

  • Posted in running thread too, I've made a couple of the free learnmyog bits and this is the neatest yet, using the Brother LS14 machine Chopsicle sold me.

    Finding my stitching is much neater plus these aren't do heavy duty as to stress the machine.

    There's a few refinements to make so v.3.0 will come soon.

    If anyone on here has spare offcuts of more specialist materials like 3d spacer mesh, LS07 or VX21 roughly 12 × 8 inches I'd be happy to buy & cover postage.


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  • Thanks for this I'm going to pick up some bits for this in town today (and wear shirt to show shop staff so they can guide me on the patch bits to buy too).

  • Anyone know what the proper name for these attachment doofers is? I'd like to order a couple as £15 for a hip-belt where the webbing is £0.70 p/m and the buckle clip appx £1 makes me think it's a myog no-brainer, unless the doofers are £5+ each...


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  • @rhb great to see - long thought of making a bumbag, this is inspiring - and yes, can’t promise when (might be weekend), but can send you some x-pac and spacer mesh

    I bought some x-pac to make some padded transport bags (still to make, but will have some off cuts), but kicked off with this basket-dog-bag. V please with it, relatively simple, but looks really neat;
    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/395348/?offset=50#comment17407014

  • this basket-dog-bag.

    This looks ace! Is it difficult stuff to work with?

    long thought of making a bumbag, this is inspiring

    Thanks, it is based on the LearnMYOG pattern and I'm really happy either it after a few days use.

    can’t promise when (might be weekend), but can send you some x-pac and spacer mesh

    This would be awesome, thanks. Let me know costs I can send to you or forum donate or a bit of both.

  • I missed this, thanks or the info and link, with postage they're £1 each on MYOG site.

  • Is this (or similar)
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387043477720
    likely to fit a 1950s Singer 99k? or should I be looking for something in Teflon?
    I'm experimenting with reclaimed leather and PVC, and the existing foot is dragging more than I would like.
    That last sentence isn't going to sound right however I phrase it...

  • Yep, just linked as a reference as I'm in Canada. Good luck with the project.

  • Thanks, and I appreciate the naming of the doofer once more, saved me a lot of searching.

  • I will check my 1950's Singer, looks a useful foot either way.

  • Might have offcuts. Will check later in the week.

  • Amazing, thanks!

  • I would like to replace the bottom of my tent and also make a new stuff sack . Can anyone recommend what sort of material I would use for this? I want something that is obviously not too heavy but waterproof and can you point me in the direction of some good suppliers, thank you.

  • Update: £3 on materials, 15 mins to make. £15 at Atom, mine won't be the same quality but feel it was still worth MYOG'ing


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  • Good one, those little clips are mighty handy.

  • Second Omnium webbing rack.

    Question for the experienced- how often do you swap in a new needle to your machine? I was playing with the tension and not getting any improvement, swapped out the needle for brand new and the stitches all fell into line, the "old" needle hadn't been used that much, prob 3 or 4 sessions.


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  • Probably the needle wasn’t seated correctly or you had deformed it going through thick material.

    Generally on the industrial machines I go until they break, or until they stop stitching (which is normally a sign they’re kinked).

  • Thanks for this.

  • Only other reason would be wrong size/type needle for the thread/material, but even then I’ve rarely had an issue.

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To all you sewing lot...

Posted by Avatar for Psychobikin @Psychobikin

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