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• #10727
Get decent glazing (low-E) if it’s south facing and overheating in summer and cold in winter
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• #10728
‘Velfac 200 Energy’ triple-glazed frames with solar-control outer glass layer would look perfect on your 70’s facade.
Turning the door into picture window: deffo the right thing to do here. I would source matching brick and pointing mortar, instead of render/cladding.
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• #10729
Doesn't look ferret-proof to me.
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• #10730
Correct answer. #ectoknows
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• #10731
Example.
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• #10732
Ok, thanks for suggestions all, I will begin to investigate!
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• #10733
Rooflight lid came off the other day.
Size, placement and intersecting joists acting as a 'brise-soleil' have all worked out; it gets light deep into the darkest corner of the space, and the joists block direct sun at the hottest points of the day to reduce solar gain.
Douglas Fir joists and birch ply lining will be staying exposed, with a coat of 5% white oil.
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• #10734
Sneak peek of the custom rainwater bits. Was mildly freaking out about the colour (RAL 1017 Saffron Yellow), until I reminded myself of the purple quarry tiles that'll pave the patio underneath it.
Deliberately chose not to go with concealed guttering/down-pipes, partly due to ongoing maintenance (you're fucked if they get blocked), and also as a conscious attempt to visually break up the creamy brick and aluminium frames/trim.
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• #10735
Really nice, purple quarry tiles sound great too
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• #10736
Looks lovely. But just to manage design expectations on here I would absolutely not recommend this as a way to control solar gain, it’s like sticking up a parasol inside a greenhouse. Braise soleil go on the outside of a building.
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• #10737
^ Yeah was about to say the same, it will move the heat from being focused in one point to more evenly distributed in the space; but the heat is still inside the envelope so it's not going to change overall heat gain in the space
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• #10738
Just saying hello. Looks like I have 430 pages to read.
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• #10739
Any tips on finding an engineer for some calcs/drawings? May be that might project is dogshit and of no interest but I've had zero response to phone or email to the 8 I've approached so far.
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• #10740
Local recommendations (neighborhood FB group etc)
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• #10741
@Jameo @branwen You’re right of course in that the heat still ends up trapped within the thermal envelope.
This fake-soleil is more for diffusing direct sun when it’s hottest, away from the dining table. The glass itself will also get a layer of 3M solar control film, and there’s a good cross-ventilation strategy (opening Velux roof lights in the pitched roof instead of fixed glass).
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• #10742
Clean up in loft today, before a bit of wallpaper and carpet
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• #10743
And yes that right door needs to be dropped if anyone notices..
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• #10744
This is super nice (as is the guttering), you should be very proud. I reckon the internal fake-soleil will do what you want it to do along with the 3M film.
The Saffron Yellow looks great and having something that will pop is good IMO, give me that over another grey house any day. Our neighbour across the road has just done a DIY gastropub grey job on his masonry but also painted the felt roof over his bay. With the same paint, lol...
Deliberately chose not to go with concealed guttering/down-pipes, partly due to ongoing maintenance (you're fucked if they get blocked)
I really don't want downpipe running through our EWI because it will compromise it, and non-concealed would compromise our facade (I don't think the architects would ever speak to us again) so I'm thinking about using this stuff:
https://www.europipes.co.uk/products/flat-drain-pipe-advanedge/What could possibly go wrong?!
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• #10745
non-concealed would compromise our facade (I don't think the architects would ever speak to us again)
My old flat had an internal drain pipe. It would be hard to overstate how annoying and difficult it was to solve when there was an associated issue. It collapse the ceiling in the stairway after backing up through my neighbour's shower.
Put drains on the outside of the building where they belong in my opinion. If they leak or block the water is outside, and you get a visual indication by overflowing of the gutter. Then they are easy to access to mend. Seems like a win all round.
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• #10746
Hivemind, I'm having to re-do our 25 year old roof on the extension which has a 12 degree pitch. Currently has felt on it and am wondering whether to change the material. I think fiber glass is out for this type of roof and could do either 1) low pitch tiles (often composite) 2) rubber roof or 3) felt again.
Any suggestions?
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• #10747
Torch on felt, another 25 years.
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• #10748
Thank you! Yeah, the colour pop is really important, especially with the exposed steel colours.
Concealed guttering: a friend has concealed gutters and downpipes as part of their 3 year old extension. They’ve had to get the whole system rodded several times a year after rubbish/leaves caused havoc, even with ‘hedgehogs’ and grilles fitted. This is likely down to poor design, but was enough to put me off the concept entirely.
It’ll probably be fine, but to a layman like me the system you linked to seems like a nightmare to maintain.
More importantly, I’d love to see your drawings and know more about what you’re doing to your house!
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• #10749
Pint of caustic soda every month, job done.
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• #10750
If you can stretch to rubber, and look to be in the house for a long time, deffo do it.
My builder uncle will never touch felt, it always fails and needs much more maintenance than the alternatives. It’s especially prone to heat damage, which will only get worse with more frequent heatwaves.
We've got a 70s house which for some reason has 3 sets of patio doors on the rear which are getting old and are part of the reason the house is too hot in summer and cold in winter. Above the central set is a glass roof, a builder says to get rid of this they would extend an existing flat roof across. The builder is willing to do all of this, but states they are very busy and we could save money and time by organising the various trades ourselves. This is probably OK, but means we need to be clear about what we'd like, starting with the glass. We'll start with just two of the three sets of door as per photo. Any suggestions about designs, that wouldn't cost a ridiculous amount? We have a good view over farmland so would like to preserve that. I'm thinking about having the apertures partially bricked up and then having a fixed window on the left hand one which is a lounge/spare bedroom [width 2.5m] and a single door plus fixed windows on the right hand one [width 3.0m] which is to be the exit from the dining area. I know bi-folds would be easiest but I'm not keen on all the separate panes. And if they were were to be partially bricked up, what are options to make a decent finish, just render or cladding?
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