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• #10677
Yes, exactly - and thank you for the clarification - I know you provided the information I needed in that picture, but this explanation made it sink in. This makes sense to me now. We're not planning to convert the loft so with our two liveable storeys it feels as though we can get regs sign off without the fire door being needed, though it may be best practice. I'll ask the builder what that might cost us. Cheers buddy
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• #10678
I have a similar setup and no door.
I would say though that I'd prefer to have a door. Sometimes you want to be able to close the kitchen off for smells/noise/stuff coming in from the garden, etc.
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• #10679
I'm in agreement with aggi, I'd stick a door in anyway, keep the hallway separate, you're not going to lose anything by having a door but I think you'll miss not being able close it off.
It won't cost that much with the rest of the work plus you'll be covered if you ever change your mind about the loft.
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• #10680
Does anyone know a decent mastic man around the e10 area please
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• #10681
With the kits from Amazon it’s a pretty easy diy.
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• #10683
My wife had a fit after the dude doing the floor made a bit of what she perceived as a boo boo.
There is no way in the world I'm getting involved!
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• #10684
nothing too thrilling
new window in, shower ready for tiling.
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• #10685
whoops
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• #10686
Can anyone recommend a third party building regs company who could clarify for me?
This is (in the words of the architects we're using, the other day) a fast moving area after Grenfell. With all due respect to other posters, this isn't really something you want advice from the internet on. Appoint half decent building control, ask them. If you've got a builder and structural engineer involved you want that anyway.
I say this as someone with a loft extension who is changing the path of our stairs so they'll exit into our living room, not our hall, and at least in theory that's £4k on an electric skylight and a sprinkler system. Although said stairs currently go down into the living room with no separating wall, so I'm struggling to see how I wouldn't pass out from smoke inhalation before I got to the door anyway if I'm honest.
It is very common to circumvent this sort of thing by, for example, fitting a door for the building control visit them removing it afterwards (I definitely did not do this on my last project). And I'm definitely not considering something similar for this one. Definitely not. But death by fire isn't nice.
For building control, I can only really comment on my personal experience and other people might have much better, but last time we used NHBC, I did contact them for a quote recently, but they were so bad at actually giving me a quote I lost all faith at that point. Our architects have good experience with PWC, but I've not used them myself because I went with London Building Control who were recommended by @dbr and a bit cheaper. But so far I've paid them and heard nothing so can't really recommend them as such so far...
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• #10687
Does any of this count if you have induction and the boiler is elsewhere?
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• #10688
Yes - your choice of hobs/home heating solution and location has no bearing.
This is about how you get out if your house burns down.
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• #10689
That’s the same layout we have, the door where you have marked is what we need for building control.
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• #10690
I dealt with these when I did my loft and they were fairly helpful
https://www.assentbc.co.uk/office/ealing-2/I also gave them a quick ring when I bought my new place to check something out and they gave me a bit of useful info.
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• #10691
Surely that's related to possible courses of ignition?
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• #10692
Plenty of ignition sources beyond the obvious like gas hobs, boilers and whatnot.
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• #10693
With all the candles my wife has in the bathroom that's probably the greatest source of possible ignition. Not sure what the options in my kitchen are.
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• #10694
I have used Assent a fair bit over the years, the Milton Keynes office were also always very good and used to work on projects in London.
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• #10695
That's never been my impression but I don't want to become internet building control advice here!
Statistically as I understand it the source of ignition these days is more likely to be an overheating e-scooter or an exploding vape. Haven't seen wife candles in the news but that doesn't mean they aren't a threat :)
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• #10696
What's on the checklist of preparing for an alu exterior door - velfac or similar look. I need to send them measurements and they put me in touch with someone. Is there anything I can do myself to shave costs? Similar with windows. Looking at 4 windows and a door in a side return. The walls are a state. Am presuming I'd want to, realistically, re-render first? Then what? How do I prepare the window 'holes' so the fancy windows look mint rather than nice windows in a shitty space? What's the process?
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• #10697
I'm going to have 12-14 of these 4m long decking boards left at the end of a project, due to phenomenally bad sums on my part. Happy to sell them at a decent discount on the forum. Currently in Catford.
https://www.envirobuild.com/products/composite-decking-explorer-granite?variant=41092786552943
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• #10698
I'll take some for the garden office decking, will try and work out how many I need and let you know
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• #10699
proposed layout and functions. Missing anything significant?
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• #10700
Bikes
Two storeys being ground and first? If this is the case, and you don't intend to do a loft conversion then there is no need for a door to your kitchen/diner (see top-right example in the above building regs part B screenshot).
Saying that, it doesn't seem too onerous to add a door as the above plans and it might help stop kitchen smells spreading throughout the house? A FD20 door would best future proof you should you wish to build upwards at a future date.
You will need to appoint an approved inspector to sign the above off now. Doing it retrospectively in say 10years time will require the works to meet regs at that point rather than when the works were done.