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I used to use Flights, then had a Condor bike fit. They said I was rocking too much and gave me a wider Romin (143mm) which is great. Idk if there are cycle shops with those arse measuring tools - but one of those will tell you your sit bone width, which will guide your required saddle width.
Personally I believe carbon posts help take out the buzz and improve comfort. I think a thud buster type thing is OTT. I know people use them for stokers on tandems, but that's a bit different. And it's telling that you never see both riders with them. I had a cheap suspension seatposts on my first London bike - what would have been called a hybrid at the time. It was pretty pointless.
Got to say tho, my experience of long distance cycling was that you need to break your body into it. So if you're sporadically doing multiday rides then you'll always be a bit sore.
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since i had mine ive been pretty evangelical about it. easily the best ~£300 you can spend on your bike
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If I bought a cheap canoe, and this: https://www.escape-watersports.co.uk/equipment/trolleys/palm-caddy-trolley-1-detail?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwr7ayBhAPEiwA6EIGxJCPoku1Mv_H5aCgCyue6V-TyJEHA22AHTJaeBc6itCPlhui95Db5BoCBcsQAvD_BwE
What would my chances be of tying one end of the canoe to the back of my saddle and being able to ride the whole mess 6 miles to nearest canal? Will those wheels have any sort of bearings, or would one ride that distance destroy them entirely?
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Canoes are heavier and longer than you think, I think it would be very unwieldy and borderline dangerous
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I have that trolley, used it for a kayak I no longer have. At the time I lived 3 blocks from the beach, walking with it was still pretty bullshit, though possibly coz I never found a way to properly secure the boat to the trolley.
The wheels have bearings I think, they seem pretty decent really, but yeah I ld agree that trying to tow it on a bike would be pretty risky
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If you were set on doing this I think I'd try to find one of those trailers people use for kids/dogs, and a way to securely fit one end of the canoe securely into that and the other maybe strapped to your back/rucksack. It would be ungainly, but potentially more secure and you'd know that the trailer was fit for road purpose.
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Upright handlebars, Ergon grips and ad a sprung Brooks ; )
Actually serious, though spring may not be necessary and get a Brooks with the heavier leather top. -
I’ve hauled a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch ply plus accoutrements with a Burley Travoy strapped on to the back. Tricky, but it worked going slow over the 3km to home.
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I'm after an acronym that, ironically, I have forgotten. My council is very keen on SANGs, suitable alternative natural greenspaces but has been blocking off pathways and points of access while "making" them. I know that a " route of preference, ROP" might fit the bill for these routes formed by wandering animals and people but it's not right. Can anyone help?
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routes formed by wandering animals and people
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Assuming it goes on a boat
If it actually goes by sea, it's 4 to 6 weeks sailing plus however long it takes to clear customs at the entrepôt and move it by road to you.
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2.5m kayak
I suspect you already have it and don't want to spend money but:
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@carson
Mine doesn't have a cut out. If I was buying one I'd probably go cut out, just because that's helped in the past with other saddles. I got this for free though so thought I'd give it a go. The gooch is the area that's noticing the benefit of the Brooks over the Flite for what it's worth, it's a bit more forgiving.
It sounds like we may have similar requirements from a saddle so whilst I'm here, I use a Brooks/Flite with risers and a Specialized Romin with drops. That might be worth looking at as well. Super comfy (for me anyway) modern and much lighter than the Brooks. Doesn't work for me if I'm too upright though.