Coffee Appreciation

Thanks! Yep, I got a bottomless, 20g basket and a puck screen too. Puck screen improved things a lot and the bottomless means I can just squeeze scales under. Plus, it looks cool.
GH Thermometer is great. Really easy to read and doesn't spoil the visual vibes like the temp strip do. I accidentally/slightly drunkenly bought the version that has interchangeable wire allowing you to switch and measure the temp inside the portafilter too (basically around 10°c or so higher).

@TW . Yeah, the blue gasket is the Teflon Isolator. It (and the GH Thermometer) came for an Italian guy on ebay. Cheaper than the Bong Isolator and a bit Heath Robinson but it seems to work. I'll colour the edges with a black marker when I get a chance as the blue bugs me!

Interested in feedback on that isolator, please can you post a link to it?

@Goyt: should be a link here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175393073275?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=n2F4locSTKG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rLu3GA3cRRy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Happy with it so far. The GH temp is definitely more manageable. It's possible to do back to back shots without having to turn the machine off or reach for the bowl of cold water. It's a DIY produced kit, so a collection of bits and pieces compared to the machine made Bong Isolator, but it's cheaper and less visible once fitted (especially, when I've taken a marker too it). Took about a week to arrive and 15 minutes to fit it along with the thermometer.

Thanks - post mil version here.

Did you notice how much it dropped the GH temp? Tempted.

Hard to say as I was measuring the temp using the strips at the front of the GH before, and I'm measuring at the back with the digital now.

Before, if I pulled a shot around 75-80 on the strips by the time I went to pull another the temp would be into the 90s. Now, after I pull, the GH temp will gently decrease and is pretty back to temp by the time I'm ready.
Mines a pre-mil, from what I read the Isolators make less of difference on post-mils.

Having an issue with the pressurestat in my old Fracino HX machine, it sticks and doesn't shut the boiler off when it should. Figure I might have to replace it (though cleaning the contacts worked the last time), but its a Sirai and those are expensive/hard to find. I've read Mater's aren't so bad and they're a lot easier to get ahold of. Anyone have experience swapping a Sirai pstat out for a Mater; given they're both just pressure-activated switches is it just a case of take the thing out, put the new thing in, connect the wires back, and done? I'm presuming the thread sizes for the diaphragm end are standard..?

Can't help specifically on your machine, but have changed pstats in Pavonis before (older ones seemed a lot heavier, solid state?) compared to what's available now but all OK and works the same. Can't guarantee it'll last 40 years like the old one but its what's available and it works.

Think Pavonis use maters though. Was more wondering about cross-compatibility of different PStat designs. Machine has got one of these which I was thinking of replacing with this. But I guess connecting the electric contacts might be difficult since one is held down with screws..

Does anyone know, typically, whether pre-ground espresso is designed for pressurised baskets? I bought 250g of pre-ground coffee from a v reputable roaster recently, someone I've used lots before. I'm relatively new to espresso and have been worried that my grind at home was too fine and that buying pre-ground (to espresso grind) would give me a much clearer visual reference.

I've tried a range of doses, 16-20g, with consistent tamping pressure, but I'm getting 40g out in 10 seconds. The bottom half of the puck is very dry and the top half is... sandy (pic below).

Could it simply be that the grind is too coarse?

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It’s just impossible to know with pre-ground coffee for espresso, if you think that with a grinder next to your machine you’ll have to adjust about 3-4 shots before it does what you want it to. Even if the pre-ground is perfect when you get it home, it can be totally different within half an hour, let alone hours or days, as it’s exposed to the elements. But it’s unlikely the grind size will be anywhere near what you need straight off the bat.
Also I just looked at that pic again and it’s much too coarse for espresso.

Agree with all of that. I was/am just a bit surprised that the roaster sent out coffee that is quite so coarse! But yes, take o board your points, which leads me to think that pre-ground espresso grind is for pressurised baskets...

If it helps, my espresso maker explicitly says to use a pressurised basket for supermarket / pre ground coffee.

(I still don't really know the perfect size, I'm still tinkering myself)

Do any of you gaggia classic mechanics have any idea what this crystalline junk is that’s oozing from the group head.
There’s some on the inside too….
Thanks in advance!

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No don’t swap the big commercial pressure stat out for a little domestic machine one. I know the little one is rated for 15a but it’s not meant for the task. If Fracino could have got away with fitting the cheap one they would have done.

The Sirai has 3 outputs for up to 3 separate legs of the element giving you some redundancy if one fails. If you combine them all then you lose all heat in event of a failure.

Looks like a very slow or intermittent leak from where the grouphead joins the top bit (sorry I’ve never taken a Classic to bits). Most likely needs a new gasket or o-ring there.

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No.19

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Yes, part 19. Boiler seal.

@Kalkhoff & @Stevethecoffee
Great, thanks
That’s consistent with the failure mode
(Slow drizzle of coffee and then eventually no flow at all)

Thanks so much for the good advice! Very noddy question but presumably this is the same as this and both should work as replacements?

No worries. Yes either of those would fit, but it’s not a part that I would buy second hand, it is safety critical.

Has anyone gone from electric back to manual grinders? I've still got my JMax for sale, but considering selling the Niche instead. I so rarely make espresso these days so I would keep the Jmax for that, and get a ZP6 for filter. Selling the niche would pay for more than the cost of the ZP6 so seems like a win win

How much would you want for the Niche, posted?

Just out of curiosity.

No idea what theyre worth second hand. Ebay has sold listings for 400-450 so average of a few recently sold minus 10-20%?

I haven't, but having used both now I think I would definitely consider hand grinders almost equally to electric. THe main downside being time and capacity for multiple espressos.

I have a ZP6 special and it's brilliant. I was initially confused by the draw down time not changing much, if at all, grind setting, but if you just ignore draw down time then you find you can get nice brews on pretty coarse and pretty fine settings. It does defy convention a bit, but it's actually very forgiving.

Based on grind quality and price to performance alone, every time I consider buying an electric grinder to replace my JX-Pro (used for filter and espresso), I can't do it. Would I like to see if there's a difference between flat burrs and the conical burr set I've been using for the last 3 years? Sure. Am I gonna drop $450+ to get a flat burr set? Definitely no. So I'd for sure sell an electric grinder to get a hand grinder and have cash left over.