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• #2
That white headtube is really classy and distinctive! Can't wait to see this project rolling
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• #3
Nice! I really enjoy mine although I am really tempted to go down the 650B conversion route since it is very annoying to only be able to fit tyres that are 32/35mm max
Excited to see what you'll come up with!
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• #4
I've got one of these at my mums in orange - went touring on it after my gcse's with 28's and massive panniers. If memory serves it spent a lot of time with 32's and guards squeezed on. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it - I'm going to fix mine up in the summer :)
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• #5
Thanks @Marcootsee. I was tempted to strip the paint but I quite like the white head tube as well. Will probs repaint at some point.
@thebikefelix 650b is tempting for sure, but I haven't yet found a local frame builder here to help me. It would be sick to experiment with brazing and move the Canti posts but that'll have to wait until I have a second bike to ride / permanent place to live and work.
@ZenithE nice, got any pics? not sure I've seen any orange ones.
First I removed all the old parts, which took about 20mins. Everything came off with no trouble whatsoever which was surprising. After that it was a case of packing everything to move to France so not a lot happened apart from thinking..
The rear spacing is 126mm so I increased that to fit a 130mm hub. Other little mods to the frame include tapping the weird rear brake cable hanger so I can add a barrel adjuster for the Canti brakes. I also drilled out the fork crown to m6 so I could fit my Nitto M12 rack. It just had a threaded nut braze on thing which wasn't super useful to me, given the parts I already had.
See below for the original specs and a couple of pics from a very dark shed.
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• #6
Had a small annoyance right as I finished building this. I noticed the front cantilever arm looking a bit wobbly, went to tighten the bolt and it snapped in the cantilever post.
Luckily, a quick trip to the local bike co-op featuring a lot of WD40 we got it out. If you're ever in the Biarritz area I recommend visiting Clavette & Cie. It's a nice shared workshop space with good vibes and lots of classic French bikes ready to be ridden.
Here's a pic of the fork with snapped bolt and a 35c gravelking SK not clearing the rear. I switched it out for a 32c semi-slick with no troubles. I might crimp the chain stays but also what's the point for like 3mm more of tyre.
I've also been saving this black Nitto Pearl stem for ages. Felt like the right time to use it, and I had a black tange seiki headset which was pleasing. Silver would probably look better, and I have a silver Pearl 11cm here with me, but I couldn't resist fitting it. Fitting the shim was a bitch. I quite like the contrast with the white headtube. The silver dia compe cable hanger throws it all off.. so that will have to change too. I've ordered a Zefal frame pump because it would just be rude to not use that rusty little pump peg. I want to go full rough stuff fellowship on this project.
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• #7
Parts list is as follows:
Nitto x Riv Choco bars
Nitto Pearl 120mm stem
Tange Seiki headset black
Dia Compe SS6 levers
Dia Compe DC980 canti brakes
Nitto S65 seat post
Brooks B17 ChampionSunXCD 50.4 Cranks w/ TA Cyclotourist rings 44x28
Shimano UN300 BB 68/117.5
Shimano Dura Ace 7403 Front derailleur
Shimano XTR M952 Rear derailleur
Dia Compe ENE friction shifters - 1x bar end, 1x downtube
Shimano XT 9 speed 11-34 cassette
TA self extracting crank boltsHandbuilt wheel set w/ H Plus Son Archetype anodised grey rims laced to Ultregra 6800 front and rear hubs w/ Sapim race spokes
Panaracer Gravelking EXT 35c front tyre
Panaracer Gravelking SS 32c rear tyre (might try a smooth 35c)Nitto M12 front rack
Tadah.id ALEDT bag
Carradice bagman expedition support
Carradice camper longflap bag -
• #8
but also what's the point for 3mm more of tyre.
I refer you back to your brief:
I want something a bit faster for riding longer distances on the EuroVelo network in Southwest France, that's capable of carrying some luggage and comfortable on multi-day rides
32mm is absolutely fine for this. You don't need 650B or more than 32mm for that. I did the costal stretch from Arcachon to Dax with a 28mm front / 25mm rear. You're dealing with pretty good roads.
Not normally a fan of black headsets, but I reckon it's the right call. Looks like a great project.
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• #9
I might crimp the chain stays but also what's the point for like 3mm more of tyre.
just shy of 20% increased air volume?
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• #10
Yes, this is sorely underestimated! For those wanting to check it, the calculation is:
(new tyre size/2)^2/(current tyre size/2)^2
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• #11
I stand corrected! Was just being flippant in my previous comment. Using your calculation @Tijmen I get 1.1962890625. so yes, @MisterMikkel 20% increase is bang on. Maths is not a strength of mine..
Went for a shakedown ride yesterday with the 32c rear tyre and it was all good, apart from on some sandy trails in the local woods which made me want a bit of extra volume. The EXT up front was great, nice to have the extra grip there. Also, the 35c slick I ordered just arrived so I will fit that later and then make a decision on the crimping situation. I'm just a bit nervous about damaging an old frame, so any advice or previous experience on that would be appreciated!
Still loving the Nitto x Riv Choco bars. This time I flipped them to be sloping down slightly. Grepp Bar tape was a quick 5min job before heading out, I'll re-do that!
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• #12
edit.. I was wrong
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• #13
you've lost me
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• #14
I've edited my comment, because I was wrong..
But I calculated it first, which was why I said around 20%.
At some point you might like to try the Continental Grand Prix Urban. They're branded as 35mm, but my pair came up around 33mm on 19mm internal rims.
They ride incredibly smooth on tarmac and gravel, and I didn't have single puncture with mine. -
• #15
thanks, I will check those tyres out!
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• #16
just fitted the 35mm slick and it clears like a dream, so I'll run that for a while. here's a pic from the test ride yesterday - very stoked! rides super smooth and comfortable for my janky left arm with the swept back choco bars.
Still a few things to add / change - waiting on the rack bolts so I can fit the Nitto m12 front rack and not use the little restrap bar bag. I'm really tempted to buy the Nitto NR-21 bag support, but the Carradice bagman support will suffice. Also need to fully re-wrap the bars for multiple hand positions. Pedals are a placeholder, I tend to run spd's when I know I'm riding all day, and swap to flats for commuting and running around town. The MKS Sylvan Gordito's are a strong contender. Might replace the rear brake housing as it was an old one that's quite scuffed up, a spot of tinkering for the bar end shifter tension wouldn't go a miss either. New brake pads will arrive with the rack bolts and a frame pump. I also have a set of original decals from H Lloyd Cycles ready to go. But none of that is urgent, I just want to get out and explore!
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• #17
Looking good. I agree, I think that the black stem does look good against the white head tube and contrasting silver bars.
That bike co op in Biarritz looks like a lovely place. Maybe they could help you with crimping the stays, it seems like the place where someone might have some frame building knowledge and the tools to do it.
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• #18
Beautiful build! Looks so classy, you make me want to try a different cockpit on mine hehe
I definitely recomment the MKS Gordito I have them on my Raleigh Royale now and they are perfect.
How is your front shifting? Cause I have so many problem with mine (46-26 on the front) where it struggle to shift upwards, those TA rings dont have ramps and pins sadly -
• #19
Getting the front mech as near to the big ring as possible helps.
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• #20
thanks man! your Royal was a big inspiration for this one. I really love those bars. From that first ride the front shifting seems all good, but I had that same crankset (44/28) and front derailleur combo on a different build, so it's tried and tested. that dura ace 7403 fd suggests a max 16 tooth difference so that's what I went with. 20t sounds quite a big jump unless you're running a triple shifter. With the limit screws dialled in I tend to shift quite positively and then trim it after the chain has jumped (if that makes sense).
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• #21
this looks excellent
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• #22
Yes, also angled it slightly, it does shift but could be better, I defo think ramps and pin would make a big difference when you have such a big teeth difference between the big and small chainring
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• #23
Glad I inspired you! Yours looks bangin, I keep experimenting with different front mechs but yeah it's such a big difference I expected shady shifitng haha
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• #24
I stand corrected! Was just being flippant in my previous comment. Using your calculation @Tijmen I get 1.1962890625. so yes, @MisterMikkel 20% increase is bang on. Maths is not a strength of mine..
Went for a shakedown ride yesterday with the 32c rear tyre and it was all good, apart from on some sandy trails in the local woods which made me want a bit of extra volume. The EXT up front was great, nice to have the extra grip there. Also, the 35c slick I ordered just arrived so I will fit that later and then make a decision on the crimping situation. I'm just a bit nervous about damaging an old frame, so any advice or previous experience on that would be appreciated!
Still loving the Nitto x Riv Choco bars. This time I flipped them to be sloping down slightly. Grepp Bar tape was a quick 5min job before heading out, I'll re-do that!
40 years of riding and never thought to have the front shifter on the down tube and rear shifter on the bars. I love it. Great bike.
I'd definitely have used a silver headset and stem, but I get where your were going with this. ....or black bars and post.
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• #25
I don't think that shifting setup is anything new, apparently elite riders used to do it to save weight. I'll run it for a while and see how I get on, but I might switch it over to a bar end.
I ordered the Nitto NF-21 rear bag support from @freshtripe which should arrive today. Sam is always super helpful - he emailed to check it would fit the frame and refunded VAT and shipping once he'd got a fixed price. I've bought a fair few things from this shop over the years and can't recommend them enough http://www.freshtripe.com
I'll need to drill through the seatstay bridge to fit the rear rack - which should hopefully be fairly easy. I'm still waiting on the cantilever rack bolts for the front. Looks like there's going to be a big storm this weekend so should have plenty of time for these jobs.
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I picked up this Raleigh Randonneur before Christmas and have been planning to get it built up for quite some time. The plan is to restore it back to a classic randonneur with some modern(-ish) upgrades. I'm kinda over the whole 26" retro mtb thing now, having restored 3 or 4 over the last few years. They are super fun and I will keep one of them for sure, but I want something a bit faster for riding longer distances on the EuroVelo network in Southwest France, that's capable of carrying some luggage and comfortable on multi-day rides. The Randonneur seemed to fit the bill well and it should just be a straight swap using most of the parts I had on my Muddy Fox Courier Comp.
The frame is in pretty good condition considering its age, and it looks like a previous owner treated a bit of the surface rust. No decals but you can tell from the spare spoke holders that it is indeed a Randonneur. The serial number suggests it was made in Worksop in 1987, so the bike is older than me. A real classic British touring bike.
Here's how it looked when I picked it up. I test fitted some 38mm Gravelkings that were on my Dad's Dawes to see what I could work with in terms of new tyres. Cleared the 38 in the front but toe overlap may be an issue, no chance in the back. Looking at the original build specs these were designed around a 28mm tyre. I'll probably run a 35mm up front and see if that fits in the back, if not I'll go with a 32mm. I spent a lot of time researching similar Raleigh builds, so I should mention @thebikefelix 's Royal and @Oddo 's awesome 650b conversion.
Since moving to France I've been itching to get riding but at the same time wanted to take it slow and enjoy the process, documenting everything as best I can. I managed to work on it all this weekend and thought I would get a thread rolling retrospectively. I really enjoy reading this current projects section so here is my attempt to add something to the forum.
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