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• #43977
Anyone done any veneering? I have some rolls of 300mm wide oak veneeer that I'd like to glue to some mdf of same width and 2.4m long. Never done this before, thought I could just spread some titebond 2 on the mdf, put the veneer on top, another sheet of mdf to sandwich and then clamp them together with cauls. After a bit of googling and seeing people with iron's I'm doubting myself.
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• #43978
Yeah just extend the pipes. Towels near the toilet is “Ungh”
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• #43979
I'd just buy some copper pipe push fit adapter, a new bit of copper pipe and do it myself. Just check the size of the pipe, get a tile drill bit and some plugs or screws to fit to whatever kind of wall that is.
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• #43981
Roller the titebond thinly and evenly to both surfaces. Let tack off and then adhere. Mid temp iron to improve bond.
Did my subwoofer like this 20 years ago. Still fine
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• #43982
I usually get stuff veneered or buy it pre-done, though have done a little.
I would say glue on one surface only and open time as short as possible, but Mr Git may know better.
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• #43983
foam, then good skrim/joint tape them skim over it
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• #43984
You might.
I, however, have dicks for thumbs. -
• #43985
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• #43986
Current state of the garage floor
2 Attachments
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• #43987
All I can think is if you are going to top it with something and then paint, phone the manufacturer service team first, some of the leveling compounds need a stupid prep product process -and ask if it'll go on painted concrete
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• #43988
Dehumidifying question:
I have a dehumidifier running in my very small (currently non-functioning/unused) bathroom.
There was a leak in there, which I've repaired.
I've ctaped up all the gaps i can to the outside world and keep the door closed basically all the time.
Dehumidifier is still pulling out 1.5-2l water a day.
I don't want to re-tile until I'm confident that things are dry.
Guessing I need to wait a bit longer? -
• #43989
Are you asking it to get to a very low percentage?
If you can see the damp, in a deeper colour, outline it with a pencil - it just gives a day by day marker of the drying progress -
• #43990
I guess it's only dealing with the top surface first and not the deeper substrate
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• #43991
Yeah exactly. It's been on for 6 weeks now. The surface looks MUCH drier but I assume it's still leeching water out from various nooks and crannies
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• #43992
I was unsure how much I'd expect the dehumidifier to be collecting in a 'normal' environment and how that compares to the current situation
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• #43993
Do you have a humidistat? To check inside the room and in another room for a baseline.
Right now my youngest's room is 67%.
Context:
- two external walls
- cavity wall insulation (maybe shit)
- gutter outside
- upstairs windows have been open for the last 5hrs
- two external walls
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• #43994
Unless you have a very well sealed room it will always pull an amount of water out of the air as the air is being replaced by the damp(er) air from outside.
As long as you don't have 75% + humidity in the room it's 'dry'.
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• #43995
That's the hard bit though isn't it? Even when there was water trickling down the wall and i could squidge the plaster with my little finger, it was 70% humidity...
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• #43996
Sounds like the room is / was quite cold? Putting some heat in to it will persuade the walls to let more of it go.
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• #43997
Yep :)
Had a heater running in there 24/7 as well - worked out the cost in electricity the other day. eye-watering. -
• #43998
If the walls are dry and you've been running it that much I'd be tempted to put it in another room for a day and see what the l/day is for comparison.
You're not going to loose anything.
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• #43999
Carnage last few days. However, the washing machine went in well and I'm glad I put the effort in to match the board to the irregular floor cut out.
However, the kick board doesn't fit, so I'm now trying to trim it. Shout out to my dad for suggesting I plane it. I absolutely did not expect to be able to plane chip board edge. But I still need to trim it more.
I really fucking hate this kitchen.
3 Attachments
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• #44000
Mine was similar; concrete screed floor in a 1960's built house. I filled in the worst holes and cracks with filler and then two coats of garage floor paint, circa £40 from Screwfix.
The first coat is painful and seems to take forever as it is filling holes and soaking into the concrete but after a few days to allow it to dry out thoroughly the second coat just flows on.
Admittedly it's not got a car in or on it but it's lasted over 12 months so far with reasonably heavy traffic i.e. I'm in there most days in work boots.
Before and after two coats pic below. For me it's worth a go at that price.
2 Attachments
You're talking to him. Maybe scrim will do it.