All my bikes and pointless upgrades: Fairlight, Stooge mk5,

I have a silver 30.9 Thomson layback if you’re interested

Aye, I’d be keen. I’ve arranged to pick up a dropper post in Glasgow tomorrow but having something to match the stem would be nice. Could you pm me some photos etc?

It’s starting to look more like a bike now. Cranks polished up well and the silver Thomson post from @cmyj looks good.
Red anodised parts wouldn’t normally be my first choice but I think the hope brakes don’t look to bad with the frame colour.

I hadn’t realised I don’t have a seat collar for it. Unusual size of 33.0mm.
Andrew from stooge has kindly offered to post one out to me.

Another oversight is that the rear shimano hub has a microspline freehub, there’s no hg freehub made for it so single speed is off the cards unless I get another rear wheel.

Boone do microspline cogs...

Bikepunx used to do them too but seem to have stopped trading. There was one being offered up on another forum recently, I just can't remember where 🤦

Thanks, I didn’t even think to google it!
A rear wheel might be cheaper than the Boone cog…

I’ll see if I can source a used one from bikepunx. I seem to remember them selling of a load of stock cheap on eBay, it looks like they have closed up.

The red parts work perfect with the frame color! And nice work on the cranks, how did you remove the anodised finish?

I hadn’t realised I don’t have a seat collar for it

The seller just got back to me about this. They said that they would have put it in the box.
Just fished the box out and found it stuck inside a kitchen roll tube…

how did you remove the anodised finish?

Dipped them in a bath of caustic soda solution then lathered in elbow grease!

Thanks, result looks perfect

Can’t believe I’m being confused by bb spacers but these cups won’t tight up flush against the bb shell while the axle sleeve is installed.
I’ve took the sleeve out and they tighten down fine.

68mm shell means no 2.5mm spacers between the cups and frame, right?
I’m guessing the axle sleeve has been incorrectly machined but I bought three of these Nukeproof bb’s in the wiggle sale and the axle sleeves all measure the same with digital calipers.

Full build inches closer.

Had planned to run this 1x but 2x will be more practical really. D2 force cranks look a lot better than the previous version.

700c wheels bought on the forum for now but I have a set of the £150 carbon 650b prime wheels to try with some 2.3” mtb tyres.

Sleeve goes in the bin.

Aye, they aren’t really doing much? What? Protecting the axle from water? Dubious.

I bought a bunch of raceface bb’s really cheap ages ago that are for 100mm bb’s… papped the sleeves out and been using the cups on my mtb with out issue and the axle hasn’t dissolved.

They’re no really doing much no. Just extra protection. I’ve taken the sleeves off of Hollowtech 2 MTB bottom brackets to fit in 68mm frames and had no issues.

If your frame has a cutout underneath the BB shell as part of the design (I’ve seen that on some retro steel frames) then I’d run one, but that’s it.

Unless you're submerging them weekly in sewage wasted beaches, just pack the inside of the BB cups in grease and keep on riding.

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Just want to say the stooge looks great, love the frame colour/geo and the fat tyres.

keep the stooge!

Thanks, I think I will be keeping it. Still not fully built, today might be its first ride out.

I’ve done criminally little mountain biking the past few months.
Hoping to find my mojo again once I’ve installed these morally questionable brakes. I’ve been a devout fan of Code RSC brakes since day one but couldn’t help try these Lewis brakes.
Have a set of 220 2.3mm rotors to go on too.

Been sitting on this Cascade Components link for ages.
More progression, more chainstay length and more travel.

Travel goes from 170mm to 177mm with the stock 60mm shock stroke. Chainstay length increases by 6mm.

A 65mm shock stroke gives 190mm travel. The original plan was sell my dh bike and run the longer travel on the Nomad but I can’t bring myself to sell the dh bike 🤷

Do 2.3 rotors not just rub the whole time?

I guess it doesn’t really matter if it’s not too noisy

tldr: nah they’re fine

Well so far there’s zero rub…
But I guess there is slightly more potential for it to happen since it’s taking up more space.

I think it is largely down to the individual though, if you don’t take the time to centre the caliper perfectly and ensure the rotor is perfectly true, then yeah, rubbing is more likely to occur.

I admit I’m definitely towards the obsessive nut job end of the spectrum when it comes to this sort of stuff. I did spend about an hour or so just making tiny adjustments to the calipers to get them perfect aligned.

Part of the idea, along with better cooling/heat management, is that the thicker material is less likely to bend compared to standard rotors, so they should stay truer for longer.

But it’s worth saying they are on my uplift bike where the brakes get cooked on long downhills. They are also clearly heavier in the hand compared to the sram rotors that they replaced.
For normal trail riding, I don’t think they’d really be necessary.

What’s going on with the Faran now?

er... I think its going up for sale! Too many bikes, not enough time blah blah blah

If anyone wants a 58r Faran with a Force/Red/Rival AXS groupset let me know!