-
• #5952
That's it. When I have tried - or the mechanic that fitted me a new battery in the middle of TCR in 2019 tried - to keep my battery inside the seat post, it has always fallen out.
-
• #5953
Mine never has. Just add some bubble wrap, tightened down with electrical tape or one of the proper mounts (I think I got a Deda one) that don't move.
-
• #5954
I lied. The last one I bought was M:Part
-
• #5956
I'll try that M-part one.
Likewise my bubble wrap efforts, and the mechanic's effort using a bit of rag, all fell down.Now, what is my seat post internal diameter...? Assume not a standard so I guess I'll have to take it out and measure.
-
• #5957
Obviously you need to wrap it more so it's fucking bosh, in there and not coming out unless you really yank the bastard out. I don't know how to explain that in watts per square rage but it should be tight enough that you do a man grunt to get the battery out of the seatpost and then feel like a beer.
-
• #5958
Don't suppose anyone has found a fix for a broken front mech actuator-servo-arm-thingee yet? I've got a perfectly good mech if that one, tiny metal part can be fixed.
-
• #5959
So you think I was doing it wrong putting a little wisp of bubble wrap round it and casually flicking it inside my seat post?
-
• #5960
That could be a reason, yeah
-
• #5961
Battery in the seatpost, then hammer a frozen sausage in to stop it falling out
-
• #5962
A kitcken scourer with the scourer bit cut off works well, you need something that'll expand in the seatpost, bubble wrap and rags don't really do that
-
• #5963
Bubble wrap and electrical tape definitely works. Fight me.
-
• #5964
yea i think it is a fine solution as well, like hippy says you just have to put it tight in there. you can also rig it up in the top tube near the heat tube where gravity isn't working against you. a bit more of a pita to access though as you'll really need to take the fork out.
-
• #5965
There’s lots of knockoffs of the Pinarello seatpost mount on Ebay.
-
• #5966
I'm with Hippy, you're all overthinking this. Mine's always been bubblewrapped and shoved in the seat post with zero issues other than getting gaffer tape stuck to itself while wrapping the thing up
-
• #5967
I'm with Hippy
-
• #5970
If you really want to make sure, hot glue the fuck out of it.
-
• #5971
#hippyforprimeminister
Any random cunt off the street would be a massive improvement
-
• #5972
Trufax
-
• #5973
Will an SW-S705 Alfine Di2 flat bar shifter control an Ultegra R8050 Di2 Rear Derailleur? And would it just be a case of unplugging the road shifter and plugging in the flat bar one, subject to cable length?
-
• #5974
It would appear so. Wiggle have some very cheap left hand di2 mtb shifters. I would imagine they can be programmed to shift the rear
-
• #5975
It should do, but best to check the Shimano Di2 compatibility document to be certain:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project/compatibility.html
In terms of installation, it might work out the box, but you may need to ensure the firmware for each component is up to date.
Kinesis do (or used to) a seatpost with a circlip to fix the battery inside the post rather than the stupid bung thing that inevitably slips eventually.