Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

That ain't happening. Bike fixes only please. I'm a lost cause.

Change it to what though?

"30.9 fully stealth routed dropper-compatible seat tube (34.9 clamp and front mech) feeds round the BB and into the down tube."

What's the biggest, toughest, grippiest collar in 34.9mm?

superglues seatpost in

Any with a barrel nut for the receiving threads.
Woolftooth if you're feeling fancy.
PRO one looks alright.

But pies are sooooo nice.

On carbon chat
Are you supposed to remove sharp edges from the edges of things coming in to contact with carbon?

Ask as on motorbikes, when fitting rental bars or alloy bars that you are supposed to file the edges of the handlebar clamps as a sharp (?) edge can cause worry marks on the bars and cause the ally bars to break.

Are you supposed to remove sharp edges from the edges of things coming in to contact with carbon?

You should have edge breaks on everything regardless of the material

Ah, yeah, like the Mason one. Keeps the bolt straight when tightened?

I'll see what's out there. I think Thompson get poo-pooed right? Any other known good aftermarket brands? Actually, let me check what you've suggested first.

Oh, the Wolftooth is only 30 squids. I thought it was going to be 80 or something. I'll probs get one of those. I like their stuff.

You should have edge breaks on everything regardless of the material

What about a double bolter, like Vecnum Tooloc? Are they bullshit?

There's also a 2-bolt PRO clamp

"A tightening torque of 4 Nm protects not only the exterior of the seatpost, but also the inner workings of adjustable dropper posts."

What about a double bolter

There's no benefit. You already know the best solution, which is that BBB Post fix thing.

"A tightening torque of 4 Nm protects not only the exterior of the seatpost, but also the inner workings of adjustable dropper posts."

Two bolts in parallel at 4Nm is the same hoop tension and therefore radial force as one bolt with the same thread at 8Nm, all they've done is to make the band wider. And they forgot the barrel nut.

Stop overthinking and just use the known good product

That Pro thing appears to have edge breaks on it though.

(sent steerer photos to Carbon Bike Repair)

Come on, you know it's funny looking at a bunch of new options that don't work before buying the original and best solution.

Wolf tooth do an "espresso" colour clamp so I'm having that. I'll see if I can find another BBB thingie.

If I get the Scott working properly I might just try and fit the Stanton to my missus. 30kg less on the saddle would also fix the issue.

"Shimano CN-LG500 chain achieves smooth and reliable shifting performance thanks to LinkGlide technology. It is not only suitable for LinkGlide 10- and 11-speed drivetrains, but can also be used with HyperGlide 11-speed shifting systems."

Is it any better or worse than a normal Hypergluide chain? I normally just buy KMC's cheapest but in this case, Shimano are cheaper.

I wouldn’t even bother, it’s seriously fine.

Last I remember they don’t repair fork, too much of a safety issues to even attempt it.

Honestly I don’t know, it’s not exactly cheap at £30, give it a go.

Fun fact; CUES 9 speed listed Dura Ace 11 speed chain as an option.

Edit;

However the new link glide chain is over 50% more wear durable vs DA (control tested by ZFC), and so is the go to recommendation now for 10 / 11spd e-bike riders – and it is also more budget friendly vs Dura ace.

You put out more torque than e-bikes so it might work for you!

It was for my missus who isn't quite (yet) putting hippy levels of strain on her bikes :) but that's interesting to know. Cheers.

If I wanted to have a wheel with 135 rear spacing that would have the possibility of running either fixed, ss and geared, would I be right in believing to take a FH-M475 or FH-M525A and use singlespeed cogs for the driver body with spacers and the 6bolt with a 6 bolt fixed sprocket?
help me

help me

Doesn't sound like you need any help

Thanks, wasn't expecting this.
do you deem it worthwhile to swap the axle for a solid one with bolts or a nice shimano skewer would suffice. It's vertical dropouts.

It's vertical dropouts

That's going to make your fixed gear choices interesting, but the QR will definitely hold the wheel in the dropouts.

Yeah, I know. It’s a process. Thanks again.

So I wonder why would that renthal mention that specifically on the bar fitment, especially as you are usually replacing handlebars.

Are you supposed to relieve the edges on stems?