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• #52
Di2 frame routing is done.
Rear brake routing is done.
Some problems with the front end.
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• #53
I need to rethink how I wire up the Di2 on the front.
I have both the handlebar-end junction-A and the understem junction-A.
Using the understem junction all the cables are significantly too long, which looks terrible.I need to rehose the front brake, I've cut it too short and I realise now I should have routed through the bars to neaten it up.
The front brake also lost all bite in the 40 minutes it took me to carry it home so I assume there is a leak somewhere.No clue what I'm doing...
Please someone do it all for me.
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• #54
I'm also looking for one of the rubber band mount things for the A-Junction box.
Please let me know if you have one to sell!And two Di2 cables, 250mm in length.
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• #55
I do have a spare rubber strap but I'm no longer in London. I could perhaps post it if you can't find one locally
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• #56
why would you have both junctions ? only the bar end is needed then you can use the box shaped one in the downtube as a derailleur splitter
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• #57
Oh, I just meant that I have both as options.
I’ve got the B-Junction box in the down tube connected to the derailleurs and battery but I’m just thinking how best the connect everything up at the handlebars. -
• #58
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• #59
but option 1 doesn't use the bar end junction which allows for easy charging? I do option 3 then you can also add the wireless unit to the left shifter if you want to control your Garmin (don't think Shimano allows this for Wahoo?) with the buttons on the shifters.
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• #60
Redrew that as 1. wouldn’t have worked.
Below, 1. is with stem junction and 2. is with bar end junction.
I’d still need to find short cables for either, and for 2. I’d need the mount for the junction box to actually be hold on the bar end (as the groupset didn’t come with it).
I suppose 2. makes more sense?
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• #61
I would go longer than 200mm from the shifter to the bar end junction just to be on the safe side.
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• #62
Thanks, that’s useful to know.
I might buy another cable for the LS to RS connection.
I have a 1m cable but that’s too long for my bars (37cm); does ~750-800mm sound about right for that?
The cables are quite expensive so hoping to get it right first time…I could use the 1m cable but I want it to look clean at the front end. Just get it done properly once and then I can be happy with it.
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• #63
Actually, I could pull the whole meter through the bars to the junction box and skip the RS.
Then I would only have to buy one cable and this (difficult to find) mount for the bar end junction. -
• #64
No. 2 looks like how I have it, other than I have the BT bit between RS and junction A
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• #65
I think i have a leftover mount :) i know i have seen half of it loose somewhere, i should find the other half, i will let you know.
I woulsnt worry about the cables being slightly too long, i cant remember it creating unwanted rattle
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• #66
Thank you!
If it does turn up, please let me know.
I’m at Regent’s a lot at the moment so I can always meet there if you’re about. -
• #67
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• #68
I've also managed to route the Di2 cables through the bars so the front end is looking clean.
It was a bit of a headache without the workshop internal routing kit but I managed it. -
• #69
Tacky or...?
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• #70
Chainrings arrived.
The only new parts I've bought are the chainrings, saddle, and handlebars. The latter two of those were difficult to find in my particular size, which I couldn't compromise on.
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• #71
tacky, but like, in a paninari way
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• #72
germinari maybe then
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• #73
Rad!
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• #74
Very Omega Pharma–Quick-Step. 52t! That doesn't look like an 11-25 on the back tho
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• #75
Nearly finished.
Hood position needs to be messed with a bit, but I'll do that when it's rideable.
I got these tyres as I love the look of Spring Classic bikes from the 2000's, where for cobbled races like Roubaix they would use the tubular versions of the Vittoria Pavé with the green stripe.
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