Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

how do i remove these odd retro dmr cranks (apart from whack them from the inside-outward with a mallet).

the threaded part is wider than the threads on a 'normal' crank extractor (like for octalink and sq taper) and the inner face is bigger than the extra bit you used to buy for octalink.

EDIT oh and the innermost threads are like you'd get on a fsa hollowtech type chainset bolt, but much longer

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look at me putting up pics of veritable shit and contaminating the essence left by all the platinum/kangaroo leather/tofu

how do i remove these odd retro dmr cranks

I think they probably came with self extractors when new. Now that those are gone, the best universal tool is the bearing separator

your one with the long legs looks pretty demonic. i went it but OMG i fear buying one of those is a bridge too far. I might go back to twatting it with a mallet. my other thought is to find a chubby bolt to go in the large thread/outer crank and pack the gap with something so that, as you drive the bolt down, it pushes the drive side away.

find a chubby bolt to go in the large thread

You won't find one that big with such a fine thread. You could make one on a lathe, but at that point you're 90% of the way to making a crank extractor and it would be foolish to stop short of completion.

yes right, gadzooks!

Is that maybe a Chieftain Mk3 crankset?
Looks like an extractor existed and is hard to find if so.

Maybe here?
https://www.acebikeco.com/tools-maintenance/tools/dmr-mk3-chieftain-crank-tool-in-silver__36314
Could be the wrong thing

whack them from the inside-outward with a mallet

Those DMR cranks are definitely in the minority of 3 piece cranks by having extractor threads. 99% off then come off by whacking.

..wow psg1ben good find, I was a bit lost. look how involved that is! they are solid cranks that's for sure.
Thanks all three of you three good options there

I am having issues with a 105 hydraulic brake (front). I have bled the brake twice. I get braking force just before the lever hits the handlebars, and then lever hits bars when I squeeze. It feels like it needs a bleed, i.e. it's not a hard stop.

I haven't yet found a way to attach a syringe/hose to suck bubbles out of the brake lines. Is there a way to do this?

What else am I probably missing?

Brake lever: ST-R7020
Brake caliper: BR-R7070

If it's pulling to the bars even after a firm bleed, you've got a leak somewhere. I never bother with syringes for Shimano brakes, just using the funnel and tapping the caliper and hoses is usually enough to dislodge any bubbles lurking. Pushing the pistons back in with the system open also seems to get rid of anything trapped behind the piston.

There's just too much lever movement before braking force starts. Seemingly not enough fluid in the system? Thanks for the advice on the piston pushing trick.

I should add that I have already repaired a leaky reservoir in the lever, and am pretty happy that there are no remaining leaks.

Did you use a bleed block and then put new pads in? If you bleed the brake with the pistons retracted and then put in worn pads, you will have too much space between the pads. Take the wheel out, squeeze the levers 2-3 times and put the wheel back in

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I’ve got Kenesis Racelight 700s with an internal width of 21mm and run 25mm corsas and have done for a couple of years. They come up a bit wider at over 26mm but have not caused any issues.
With the wider external of the primes you’d get a nice aero look too?
Go for it.

Unless there's a lack of fluid then the system will adjust to the worn pads with a rotor in just as it would if they wore down over time. But doing what you say will make the pads sit closer to the rotor and decrease lever throw, at least until the pads wear a bit.

Cable tie the brake on over night

If the brakes are spongy, it was an issue my (previous) team encountered since the R7000 hydros came out. I recall one new pair that needed to be swapped then burped/bled; 45 years of shop mechanic experience between 3 people and none of us could get damn brake to feel crisp.

Do what I said, works on all hydraulic systems.

yep, I was assuming Ndeipi had just done a few lever pulls in the stand rather than cranking on it. I was just suggesting to accelerate the process of the pads advancing a bit by taking the wheel out.

Yep, this is also a good method, even better if you leave the reservoir screwed into the lever (Mineral oil only)

What do you mean by

leave the reservoir screwed into the lever

Has worked with motorbikes and cars.

Why does only my front brake squeal in the wet but never my back? Stops once repeated braking clears/dries the rotor. Has been consistently like this, changed rotors and pads at same time recently, so pretty sure it’s not contamination. (Juintech F1 w/shimano rotors and uberbike matrix pads)

Not a huge issue that I’m necessarily needing to fix or anything, just curious

Squeal is supposed to be the pads vibrating, sort of bouncing between the disc and the caliper. It is supposed to be that on cars and motorcycles. So clean calipers and discs including the holes in the disc and if there are any anti squeal shims a smear of ceramic brake grease on the edges the pads where it touches the caliper body and see if that helps.