Home DIY

What paint should I use to paint a new wooden door bar?

Floor update #1473, hardest part done.
Made a paper template, but it still took me three attempts to get it right.

Feels good to have the room more room like finally.

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Looks very well installed! Would love to see the whole floor, the cork blend is stunning.

I had a Ryobi tool with battery nicked. Now pondering whether to stick with Ryobi for random extra tools (I'll need to buy another battery) or look at the Parkside stuff.

I've got DeWalt drill/impact driver but for the stuff I use less regularly the DeWalt premium doesn't seem worth it.

Can you get the Parkside stuff anywhere (at the same price) other than hoping Lidl will have what you need when you need it?

A lot of it on ebay, but the more popular stuff gets hiked up in price annoyingly

Fanxs.
Just for you, still needs some finishing but floor is all there…

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I did Victorian style mosaic tiles on my hallway floor and used self-levelling (we had a concrete pad under some of the floor, screwed down the boards, then a sheet of 12mm(?) OSB over the top. Less bendy than ply that thick. Tiles still look good after 6 years.

I posted in this very thread https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13789198/

Engineered wood is 18mm and should be laid over a foam underlay to absorb noise. Adjust the thickness of your OSB subfloor to get the tiles the same height as the floor.

Phwoarr!

Can we see the exterior of your loft as well?

Looks great.

What's the deal with the bit of wood under the window? A spare bit if wood, or something specific?

Also is is safe to put weights on a cork floor? Like how squishy is it?

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This is the kind I've used in the past :-

https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/fixing-finishing/preparation/decoupling-matting/excel-bond-de-coupling-matting

18mm ply will probably give you a more stable surface than 9mm over floorboards. Most of the time you do want to avoid increasing floor depth too much.

Looks great - forum flashback.

Though also it makes me absolutely not want to do it at all, given my hallway is about 5 times the length of that and my current approach of 'starting a project, leaving it unfinished for 2 years, starting a new project' probably means my grandchildren will be doing the tiling.

Thanks

Most of the time you do want to avoid increasing floor depth too much.

Why is this? I would have thought the more floor, the more solid underfoot it'd feel. I remember my father in law having karndean in his kitchen and it always felt like a school dining hall with concrete underneath.

The height is usually just about matching thresholds. If you are on joists then reinforcing them might help to reduce flex. If you put 18mm ply over the floorboards and you can get away with the increase in height at adjoining floors then by all means do that to increase strength in the floor.

Generally I don't tile on suspended floors because the movement leads to grout failure or tile cracking or both.

Thank you - will do some more reading.

Floor looks great! You're not fooling us with those weights though. And get off WhatsApp :P

(Disappointed by visible bed in Melissa's place behind, a bed should never be visible through a window like that IMO)

then a sheet of 12mm(?) OSB over the top. Less bendy than ply that thick

Hardiebacker is even less bendy than OSB ;)

It’s too basic bitch I’m afraid, soil pipe kinda ruins it too like a big snorkel at the back, ran the horizontal internally though, makes a good foot rest.

Great shouts.
The wood is a placeholder for an upstand I’m yet to make because no one in East London appears to have a track saw I can borrow.
Bit worried about the weights leaving dents as to @Fox point, I don’t use the damn things so they’ll just sit.

Get some soft 'rollerblade' wheels for your chair to protect the floor from dents, I have swapped mine on my cork floor with good results.

Yes, that's what a quick search suggested to me. Not sure if I want to be at the mercy of what I can spot in the middle aisle.

Ohhhh good tip, do you have a link?

use the damn things so they’ll just sit.

#4thegram

The ones I bought dont exit anyone, but there are loads of similar ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=rollerblade+caster+wheels

Thank you! I had not even considered that.

Loads of options on Amazon. Doesn't look like you need to know, but to others, there are IKEA specific ones that have a 10mm spigot instead of 11mm. Which I wish I had known on my last chair as I had to drill out the legs. They are a worthy upgrade regardless of the floor covering.