Home DIY

Actually I revised my suggestion.

1. Remove banister
   
2. Create rectangular mold from ply
   
3. Insert banister
   
4. Fill with epoxy
   
5. Add hair pin legs
   
6. Post video on YouTube
   
7. Profit
   
   

Vola you'll have a unique coffee table and money to buy a new banister.

I need to change a double pendent light back to a central light. Speaking to the plasterer he said going in from above would be the easiest and neatest - in upstairs room roll back carpet to middle of room, lift floorboard.

My questions are these:

1. is there anything I need to be aware of rolling back the carpet? I have only ever removed carpet, not roll back and replaced.
   
2. Is there any value while half the carpet is up to adding some insulation in one half of the floor?
   
   

It isn't practical/achievable to put insulation in between all the joists so that is 100% out. However, would lobbing some loose fluffy insulating the floor in one half of the room be worth it? The idea being, down the line I could find some time to do the other half of the room - whereas we'll never carve out the time to empty the whole room and do the whole floor properly.

Cheers.

(yes I know we should have considered this before plastering)

Yeah, but for that to work it would have to be black walnut and luminous blue epoxy.... no idea who is creating the demand for the pieces made by YouTubers, they claim they sell for thousands, which is mind boggling IMO.

https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/el2-epoxy-laminating-resin
If you're in doubt about any part of the process, including how to do it in situ, shoot them an email. I think they're pretty good at helping people out.

I’m ok with this… 65% done?

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That looks great!

Looking good.

A lot more black than I'd expect - my memory is of cork being more browns. Picks up the rad and (I assume) other black accents in the room.

Yeah! Didn’t want to be too matchy but fittings are black as is the top of the desk I’m still building - valchromat or whatever.

And cheers! I’ll prob mess up the last 5%.

Long shot, but does anyone have any spare 40mm iron-on laminated edging.

Google lense said this is oak. The first roll I've received from Amazon is too light. Sourcing a metre of this stuff to match is a shit way to spend my evenings.

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It starts out very light but a bit of oil on it and it will darken. Have you tried that with the one you have?

That's very good. I can't see how you would get a better finish than that.

Hat’s off to you, it looks great.

Thanks both. Feels good to get such praise from @Airhead !

I’m prob going to mess the long wall up, or do something daft.

Been kid-work-diy-kid-diy for a straight 12 hours, which feels a bit much, I blame it on @CYOA installing g hub.

Any reccos for oil based exterior gloss for a timber front door?

Dulux weathershield but oil based is pretty old school. The latest waterbased stuff is pretty durable and doesn't take 8-16 hours to dry.

Thanks. Don't mind old school - actually going for old school if anything. Also going to paint the door flat in my workshop so application should be fine.

I bought it from amazon for ease of returning.

It hadn't occured to me that it could be real wood, but that may well be why it's so light. TBH I'd sooner just have matchy fake wood. It doesn't need to be a flawless match as it a bit on the end that will eventually have plants and things around it.

I need a circular or plunge saw to chop up a load of Viroc cement boards (as featured in red on the Hackney Downs Grand Designs house!).

I'm doing a whole house self-build renovation, so whatever I buy is going to get plenty of use. It seems to make sense to buy a DeWalt circular saw (I'm already very much bought into the DeWalt 18v system) and use it with a track for cutting boards but then be able to use it for other jobs.

The other option is to get a cheap track saw like the Mac Allister one from B&Q and fit it with a decent blade, then buy a circular saw separately.

@dbr has also pointed out that I'll need a chop saw too (I had to google this - I've never even used a circular saw before so have no idea what I'm doing really).

Any pointers? Do I want 185mm or 165mm? Black Friday is coming, which is convenient...

Do you need a water feed for cutting them?

I should add the cuts need to be as clean as possible or the whole house will look shit. No pressure :)

I don't think so - our supplier says

The tools and fastening systems used for Viroc boards are identical to those used with wood. A Tungsten blade is recommended for in-situ sawing.

And

For thicknesses up to 19mm, circular saws are ideal and for greater thicknesses, the support of a workbench is recommended to support safety requirements as well as ensuring even surface quality. A jigsaw is ideal for curved cuts (using the correct blade depending on wood or metal).

They can also CNC profile them and pre-drill them with screw holes, which sounds great in theory, but if you get any measurements wrong or anything changes...

I had the same track or circular or circular + guide trilema and ended up buying nothing :(

Didn't help that the 18v Milwaukee circular that is track compatible costs £££

Not an option :)

We have two grey ones (which we'll be using for flooring on the ground floor) sat in the living room at the moment, I need to get chopping on that so we can put some down in the hall, seal it then test oily bikes passing over it this winter.

They're ginormous (2.6 x 1.2m) and bloody heavy.

Milwaukee costs £££

And this is why I'm a DeWalt man!

Idk if this helps, but as an amateur, I find having a cable attached to circular saw an extra compilation that makes life harder. I'm sure it'd get easier with practice, but I rarely use it.

Mine is on perma-loan from my folks - so no point to replacing it - but if I was buying a new one it would definitely be cordless... and I'm happy to buy corded tools when they're better VFM.

I bought a track that you can set up with other brands... Kreg maybe? Let me search and check.

Edit: this thing
https://www.toolstoreuk.co.uk/kreg-kma2685-int-rip-cut-guide-metric/p6757

Obviously not quite as good as a proper track saw, but Idk what exactly your use case is.