How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.

Makes sense unfortunately.

Plastic sheeting down. Really weak mortar mix and put some slabs on top.

Remove after the ink has dried?

Why are lockable toilet roll holders a thing?

And why did I buy one by accident!?

Main steel in, so pranging when the props get wound down!

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Is that one girder? How did they get it there, not by hand?

Yeah it’s a single ~6m steel span. They carried it in down the side passage.

I’m more worried about them getting the 190Kg 2.4m tall Velfac door unit through the house unscathed…

@Grumpy_Git luckily we have resolved the step height issue as the BC Inspector took the measurements from the top of the threshold and not the actual internal floor height, he's agreed that we're ok as we are below the maximum and each riser is the same height.

We've now flipped the doors inward as well so hoping we can get this shit put to bed so we can move house!

Building control guy told us to paint the RSJ as well as fire board it. I emailed Rawlins about the paint because they won't sell it to you without filling in a form first. They want us to get a special primer + the paint + a top coat paint. My thinking is it's not exposed so we don't need the top coat and am I wrong in thinking we can just use any old steel primer?

https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/fire-retardant-paints/steel-intumescent-paint/4913-thermoguard-steel-fire-paint-primer.html
+
https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/fire-retardant-paints/steel-intumescent-paint/5227-thermoguard-thermocoat-wi-ultimate.html
+
https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/fire-retardant-paints/flame-retardant-topcoats/2-thermoguard-flame-retardant-topcoat.html

Also, seems like Rawlins do the form thing so they can fill out a certificate afterwards to certify you used the correct products. Is this actually needed?

I’d you don’t do it someone will want it in the future and it will be a load of hassle

I didn't think you had to paint plus fireboard? I thought it was one or the other, but maybe regs have changed/I have it wrong.

If you're being told by BC to paint it, just do it how its being asked of you and get the cert. My lesson with dealing with Building Control is to have ALL THE THINGS as they ask for soooo soooo much.

I didn't think you had to paint plus fireboard? I thought it was one or the other, but maybe regs have changed/I have it wrong.

Same but that's what the guy asked for. I even double checked he knew we were going to board it.

Part B - maybe your specific instance requires 60mins resistance. I think 15mm fireline only gets you 30mins - never heard of paint under board tho 🤷🏻

Well I'm £200 down on fancy paint now just to get a certificate someone may want in 30 years

£200/30years X risk of an actual fire

Sure but if there's a fire strong enough for over 60 minutes to melt the RSJ then I think we've got a bigger problem on our hands.

Aye the girders is fire proofed for an hour will be the least of your worries, seems totally daft and a bit over board from building control.

Steel isn't fireproofed to stop it melting. It's to stop it getting hot enough to buckle/warp which happens at a much lower temp and is likely to make your building collapse.

Some thoughts on this situation appreciated.

• ~15 of our engineered wood tiles (6mm oak top layer, concrete floor, fitted in the summer) have splits in the wood over ~40m² area. Probably about 3-5 bad ones. Hard to photograph but hopefully you can see... it's mainly splits and raises in the courser layers of grain. It's 2 issues really, 1) it's a new floor, 2) some of the issue tiles are in high traffic areas and we're worried about it getting worse or catching and hurting someone's foot.

• At the time of install the floor fitters said they had to hammer some in pretty hard. They also said there were ones that were damaged which they threw.

• They came over and had a look and said they would check with the seller/manufacturers on the finish and proposed to sand back / dig out the worst, fill, sand, and refinish.

• seller wasn't helpful and just said they get them supplied finished and don't know what varnish/oil is used

They are finally coming back today to have another look. And will take some spare tiles away to try and match the finish. We're a bit worried about how easy it will be to match the finish. As they're parquet tiles having a few randomly with a different finish will look shit.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

Where do folks thing the responsibility lies? Installers, floor suppliers, no one? Are there any steps we need to take to protect ourselves?

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If jet fuel can't melt steel beams a chip pan fire should be fine.

Surely the supplier has a supplier and they could contact them? I would be chasing for those details if you’re really worried about the match.

That said, unless it’s a very different shade due to different oil eventually you’ll forget about it.

Do they have to be replaced or can the gnarly bits be cut out, very lightly sanded and then oiled?

Talk to your insurer?

Either the tiles weren’t fit for purpose or they were installed badly or both.

The right solution is probably to pull the borked ones up and replace but that probably means taking up most of the floor.

If you can’t face that, then sand the entire floor back, filling the defects - which will be hard as they are thin cracks - is probably the thing to do. Less agony than taking it all up but it will have to be done with care and longevity in mind. a ballache all the same that the installers or supplier will try to avoid paying for.

Replacing is basically impossible as its in a herringbone pattern with t&g tiles. I guess it could be possible to chisle out the oak top layer from a single tile, and then split the oak top layer from a spare tile and bond it in.

Cutting out the gnarly bits, filling, and finishing is the proposal.

We're a bit wary about contacting the supplier at this stage in case we need to raise the issue with them in general, which is part of why we wanted the fitter to do that part in the first place.

(tile e.g. table is teak G-Plan that we wax polish for comparison - tile is more matt and I guess an oil finish)

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Talk to your insurer?

Thanks that's a really good suggestion. Are there any dos or donts when bringing it up? We previously had an issue with renewing H&C due to a potential claim that hadn't yet materialised.

Our concern with the supplier is that the tiles were one of the smaller costs. Redoing all or the majority still entails labour costs, bonding material, etc.

So...

Although it's a bit tense as the floor fitters don't think the issue sits with them they've been pretty good.

Given how some are splitting they are concerned that any local repair could later split. Therefore, they suggested carefully removing the issue tiles, replace and glue.

When I say suggested, they have cracked straight on and now my house smells like it's on fire.