Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I need a further 10mm

That's what she said.

Just buy a front brake, it's easier and probably cheaper, definitely so if you sell the Record rear to offset the cost.

Presuming it’s currently 130/135mm qr and you’d be happy to keep it qr then it’s very straightforward.

You’ll probably be thinking of the caliper snuggly fitted inside the rear triangle, atop the chainstay? That can be difficult but very rarely impossible, fitting it into off the seatstay outside of the triangle is much easier.

If it needs setting out from 130-135mm then I’d expect this would be possible without any further work but whoever does it might be more comfortable removing and then replacing the bridges, especially the stays are quite lightweight.

When I was doing this kind of thing I’d have been asking about £60-75 for an IS tab on top of the seatstay and some zip tie cable guides, around a hundo if you want the caliper inside the triangle and if it needs cold setting and/or the bridges need redone then £150-£175?

Your paint would be knackered and redoing that could easily eclipse the cost of the metalwork.

If you want to go thru-axle it’s a fair bit more involved, I think you might be lucky to avoid rebuilding the entire rear triangle.

It’ll be a smaller list of framebuilders willing to take it on and a considerably larger price tag. Could be negligible saving over having a whole frame built to be honest.

Thanks. Will do

Thank you, that’s a very detailed response. Food for thought, as I’d want to go thru axle.

New frame time. shrug

From memory, I think that you can get a Shimano fitment longer screw. Think it was mentioned here.

I know you can get longer and shorter bolts. Wonder what there name is, recessed bolt? Have them to convert normal nut rear brakes condor brakes to front and rear recessed nut.

Like these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333644322324

Yes, but mine came from on one planet X for a quid.

Forgive my stupidity, but
If I take one of these https://www.merlincycles.com/sram-nx-eagle-pg1230-cassette-12-speed-250745.html
Some of these

https://www.tweekscycles.com/sram-gx-eagle-axs-upgrade-kit-ral00-7918-104-000/

And a 12 speed sram chain
I can put it on an 11 speed HG rear wheel and a hybrid wanker bike?

Is it possible to use Shimano Di2 11 speed shifters with a Shimano Di2 12 speed rear mech?

Thanks.

They use different wires, so I'm reasonably confident it's a no.

I’m struggling to fit an 11s cassette to some 11s compatible Hed hubs - cassette slides on so far but won’t seat the last few mm (looks more in the photo below). Freehub is not chewed up and there’s a ‘drop’ into the last couple of mm - is that the issue?

I’ve tried both a used and a new 11s cassette that fits fine on another set of wheels.

Any suggestions?

2 Attachments

Freehub is not chewed up

(shows picture of chewed up freehub)

Stone the burrs off that chewed up freehub rotor and get back to us if you're still having trouble

Thanks but as in the top picture the cassette already goes on well past the bits that you describe as chewed up

TT aero bar shifters, yes. Road drop shifters, no.
There's no cross compatibility between 11 and 12 speed with the exception of 11 speed TT shifters and that's because they haven't bothered making any 12 speed ones as the market is so small.

Great, thanks.

Check out https://bettershifting.com/ for all your di2 tips and tricks :)

Just as I was about to ask about 10/11 compatibility ...

Many thanks.

Ok, so I’ve gently cleaned up the freehub and the same issue presents, almost as if it’s the small step down at the spoke end of the freehub that is the issue which doesn’t seem to make any sense

Twat it.

I’m googling ‘rubber mallet’

You can't twat it with Google.

"apply more force"

is the answer to every question in this thread.

Up until the question is "what do I do after applying too much force?"

Although by that point you may as well apply all the force.

Time to call out the special forces