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  • Lshaped trim as @TW says. I got some nice oak stuff when I was building my hearth.


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  • Nice modern "fire" you have there!

  • Ha, it is even more modern now.


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  • Yeah you're post in the other thread was what convinced me. We opted for the thin trim tho to remove the inner lip.

    I think because we have such a deep recess I wanted to keep as clean a profile(?) as possible.

  • I just need to get around to measuring and packing the centre space. Then I'll tidy it once the plastering is done.

  • Yeah - I just can't decide if full room height panels or plasterboard header and conventional door height sliders is a better aesthetic option.

  • Yeah - I just can't decide if full room height panels or plasterboard header and conventional door height sliders is a better aesthetic option.

  • This may not be a DIY question but we've just moved into a gaff with (edit - single glazed!) aluminium windows. They have no trickle vents and the condensation in the morning if we've had the windows closed is crazy - it's like it's raining on the inside. There are some vents in some rooms, but they don't seem to make much difference.

    I only noticed this this morning as it's started to get colder, and obviously shorter term we'll try to keep windows open as much as possible, but longer term is there anything I can do here? Is it possible to retrofit trickle vents onto aluminum windows?

  • Yeah, odd one that, my weather app was saying the dew point was 15°c the other day I think that's high - warm air meeting anything 15°c will condense. I don't think it should happen on double glazing , my single glazed 100+year sash are covered init

  • A drill and some kind of synthetic spun plastic like a scotchbrite pad rammed in there.
    Or just buy a karcher window vac.

    What’s the plan long term? New windows? Triple glazing and condensation will disappear apart from the odd day you get it on the outside.

    At some point I’m making some trickle vents for my critall windows to fill the original letterbox sized ones, no idea what was there before but there is foam pipe lagging jammed in for now, going to use spun synthetic matting from an industrial floor polisher cut to size and then make a screen from decorative brass mesh bordered with folded brass shim but not starting on that for a while.

  • I'm installing a new door cill.

    I need to build up and level the substrate. It's a mess. At some point an air brick has been put in which sits proud of the existing brickwork and course isn't level.

    The previous dealt with this by packing mortar between the old cill and the DPC which might explain why the cill rotted from below.

    Any suggestions on a product to do the building up and levelling? Something that's easy for a numbskull like me to work with.

  • Readymix mortar and SBR Admix?

  • Awesome. I’d need tools - not done brick / cement work before but suspect there’s more of it in my life in the future.

    What tools would you recommend?

  • I’m not an expert but maybe a bit of shuttering ply at the front presuming it’s going to slump forward, a bucket and float trowel/pointing trowel.
    Maybe an old brush to wet/PVA what you are going on top of.

    I used mortar/SBR for holes round a window frame and mortar to build up a corner of a bathroom floor


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  • (edit - single glazed!) aluminium windows.

    could be an up hill struggle, trickle vents work well for air flow in very well insulated buildings (I've also known them as an excellent breeding ground for 50+ harlequin ladybirds or spiders). Fixed interior second glazing maybe an effective option to weigh up with all the cruxes

  • Awesome, all tooled up.

  • Not sure where to post this…

    Garden LFGSS approved (mains/12v) lights. Aware of hue lily, but don’t like the inability to change bulbs. Any recommendations. Thanks

  • These are mains, pretty durable, extendable and you can change bulbs. Being 240v you can also dim them.

  • If your hot water pressure is gravity fed (from a tank in the attic) though, you may have just reduced the distance between your shower head and the tank which could cause the drop in pressure.

    @ReekBlefs you can test this theory by holding the shower head lower down. If the pressure is good at the bottom of the bath but terrible when held towards the ceiling, that's what it is.

  • Missing the link? Sorry if I’m being daft :-)

  • My fault :-

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTH10WW.html

    Realised you are looking at spots though. You'll find some basic ones on TLC that you can fit any LED lamps in.

  • My repairs to our roof held up to the absolute minter of a rainstorm on Friday. Which means I can afford to get the car MOTed this month.

  • ffs I always start these projects in the wrong season, glorious weather though, 117 years of paint to blitz through.

    Okay could have sent away for a commercial strip, but there is something labour loving about working insitu and nod of appreciation from neighbours

    New door lick and stained glass planned for my time machine restoration back to 1905


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  • stunning door, it'll get there

  • Finally got around to tackling the non existent ventilation on our cooker hood.

    All went pretty well, but it's not a job I was looking forward to - mainly because the cooker hood wall fixings get more and more fragile every time I touch them.

    Still I've now got a nice piece of ducting from the hood into the ceiling void. Just need to route it outside, but that's a job for another day!


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Home DIY

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