Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

is 32 overkill? Hoping to lace them to some 80 mm carbon rims

Zipp 808 Track wheels are 20/24, faster people than you use them on smaller tracks.

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An idle question; what purpose does rim tape fulfill on a true tubeless rim? (i.e. a Mavic one where the nipples thread into the rim rather than having holes drilled the whole way through?

what purpose does rim tape fulfill on a true tubeless rim? (i.e. a Mavic one where the nipples thread into the rim

None whatsoever, which is why those rims are run without tape.

Edit:nm

Potentially in the market for a budget/lightish 700c disc wheelset and have seen 4 seasons coming up for sale cheap on here recently. I'm aware there have been some quality issues but the likelihood is these will spend most there life on the turbo. Is it possible/are the parts available to change the end caps back to old standards? The ones i've seen up for sale have all been 12mm TA/142mm, the bike in question is QR/135mm.

I’m building up a set of Gravel Touring wheels, Novatec hubs DT Swiss G540 rims, etc Im going to use Sapim Race double butted spokes.
When I built some Gravel Touring 26” wheels It was recommended I use Sapim Strong straight gauge spokes for the rear drive side.
Is this a good idea/worthwhile?

Is this a good idea/worthwhile?

No. If you want extra strength, use DT Alpine III or whatever the Sapim equivalent is.

Just checked Sapim strong is 2.3mm at the j-bend end then 2.0

Need some advice from a more experienced wheel builder than me on whether this is dumb or not...
I want to build these rims as a fixed wheelset, but have only heard bad things about having 16 spokes on a rear wheel, especially fixed.
I'm pretty light, and the rims look strong, but what are the odds of dying by pothole on a wheelset like this?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255856621473?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=v31JUSAHSJa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=8SCHRPw5SqC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
And the only set of 16h track hubs I could find
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193400029806?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5S1OD2gfSzm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=8SCHRPw5SqC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You know those are teeny tiny 650c rims?

Yup, my teeny tiny bike is gonna fly

Those rims are 650C, so I'm guessing you have something like a Dolan Kadet or you've made a mistake.

The old 16H Vento and Shamal 700C wheels are plenty strong, but they don't use normal hubs and spokes. Likewise the 16-spoke Shimano 7700s. When you are pushing the limits of what spokes can do, you really have to design the complete wheel as a system to make it reliable.

I would go to a bigger or smaller rim size as there is a much better selection of tires available for 584mm or 559mm.

On the other hand, I'm a fat bastard and have got away with riding 20H 700C rear wheels, even dished for multiple gears, so a 16H 650C with no dish is probably no worse.

I would go to a bigger or smaller rim size

If his bike is made for 650C, 650B won't fit and the brakes probably won't reach 559. There are still perfectly good 650C tyres out there for the kind of bikes which have 650C wheels.

I'm happy for 650c to be the hill that I die on, just hopefully not from a broken spoke on the way down...
When you say the Ventos don't use normal hubs and spokes though, what do you mean?

I assumed longer reach brakes would be required for the smaller wheel - no 650c frame can accommodate an extra 5-6mm?

When you say the Ventos don't use normal hubs and spokes though, what do you mean?

They're straight pull, and the special bladed spokes have a larger cross sectional area than ordinary round spokes.

no 650c frame can accommodate an extra 5-6mm?

The frame will obviously accommodate 559 rims, and swapping from racing calipers to touring ones will fix the reach issue, but who wants to fit MTB wheels to their race bike?

whether this is dumb or not...

This is the main point, though. 650C 16-spoke wheels for a light rider are only as dumb as the 16/20 700C set I'm planning to subject to my >100kg. The thing is, mine are for short distance time trials on courses I've ridden so many times that I know where all the bumps are by heart. For general tooling about, it's 32/32 all the way.

My second point (no 650c frame can accommodate an extra 5-6mm?) was about the extra 5-6mm needed for a larger wheel, not smaller.
Springdank may or may not be racing, but I was approaching the question from a feasibility standpoint, not about how much slower these changes might make the bike.

I was approaching the question from a feasibility standpoint

If he has a 650C frame, the feasible solution is 650C wheels and tyres.

Other size wheels are also feasible.

Maybe, you don't know for sure without seeing the bike

Yep.