Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

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  • this looks like a Wheels mfg adpater for 30mm axles. you should re-install it after getting the correct tool ) and possibly re-press the bearings ( maybe ask someone to do both ).

    ( i think the fsa converter that you tried to use is for regular bb30 bearings, not adapters, hence the rubbing. )

    using hollowtech will aslo require to install an adapter so you will face the same issues.

  • Yeah it was more the whole 'if I'm going to have to buy a new BB I may as well switch to Hollowtech at the same time' thinking.

    I'll pop down to the local and either buy a tool or ask them to reinstall.

    Great advice, thanks all

  • I think it deserves some 40/45mm knoblies but I think it's ready to blat...


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  • Anyone selling a great looking 52-25cm Cannondale in HHSRB guise? Nothing more modern than a caad 10, and no electronic bits.

    I'm getting old and lazy and can't be arsed buying something anti and installing the slammed steerer, Thompson bits, etc.

    Please let me know.

  • New daily ride, just mudguards to add and it’s winter ready


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  • When you know the poster before you see the handle. Cool beik, nice structurals.

  • You know me too well….

  • Everyone seems to have XRs and Ts right now.

    GOOD FOR YOU 😪

  • Tbf its been a long search to find one.

  • One for you lot?


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  • Seems like a lot of bike for 250? Or does nobody want rim brakes any more?

  • Modern bikes with 32c tyre clearance and disc brakes killed the winter bike. Rim should be reserved for high-summer jaunts.

  • The hydro SRAM red brakes are worth that alone

  • that's a silly amount of bike for that price.

  • I (over)paid £250 for just that CAAD7 f+f about a year ago...

  • One for you lot?

    Ride debilitating gear ratios ✔️
    DIY aluminum corrosion fix ✔️
    Obscure and expensive to maintain tech ✔️
    BB creak/squeak ❌

  • Unfortunately they won’t spin round. With the 2020 frames they’re basically all going to crack, it’s just a matter of when. If you’re getting a good deal then go for it.

    I’ve also been quoted only a couple of hundred from the guys at carbon repair in Surrey to sort it all out and add strength once it goes


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  • I know this issue has been explained somewhere but would anyone mind to re-elaborate?

    I only recall construction mistake on cannondale‘s end

    (CNASD (Cannondale Not-so Advanced Steerer Design))

  • There's a little nubbin that is supposed to stop the bars over rotating and smashing the top tube in a crash but all it achieves is a dead frame and / or fork. Some folks have achieved this without even crashing, i..e letting the bars flop around when the bike is lifted by the top tube.

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Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Posted by Avatar for MaxC @MaxC

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