Home DIY

Oh well. Well see what they say.

I have to cut a section out as some how it's come proud of the wall.

Absolutely brutal. Probably coming up to 4hrs. With over an hour clearing and setting up with lots of protection on the floor and thick dustsheets blocking the rest of the room off. Then worked flat out, only for there still to be more to do.

At least now though though the messy work is done. Now off to take over the childcare :|

I just so wish I'd done this when the floor was up and the rads were being installed. Lesson learned.

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Looks neat, as painter I'd want that 10mm below the existing level - I would hope an electrician will give the regs / best practice , if it's proud a decent/fussy plasterer may refuse the job or explain the go around of a high spot wall.. sorry it seems always negative - more dust more work

I’ve fitted this kind of thing to PVC windows. The frames will be hollow, but the fittings should come with self-tapping screws.

Use a new drill bit.

Hung a radiator. Used about 5 wraps of PTFE tape on the tail threads. One leaked. Took it off and used about 7 wraps, still leaks. New rad, new tails and valves. What do? Worried about taking it on and off too much and damaging the compression fitting on the TRV.

I have some jointing compound too. Is the answer about 7 wraps and some compound?

Fresh olives? These should provide the seal rather than the tape.

It's leaking at the tail thread, not the TRV olive.

As that conduit isn't retained I'd want some more depth of plaster to hold it in place properly.

Based on my outdated knowledge, prescribed zones count for cables less than 50mm depth so these count as prescribed but are installed correctly as horizontal from the appliance (socket)

An extra ¼ turn? Or more tape covering shoulder zones of the valve.

I find the hard water in my area seals up small leaks after a few days.

I'm stripping the wallpaper in our house and it's a nightmare. Some of it seems to be 4 layers thick and steam doesn't even penetrate the top layer. Some places seem to have a layer of plaster impregnated paper down before the wallpaper which turns gooey from the steam.

See up the thread a couple of months back, various solutions offered to a similar question from me, can’t exactly remember the method for the goo but i thing it was spraying with something (white vinegar?) and more steam plus a scraper.
there may have been a zinniser product that gets the paste off.

Just tried more tape and some jointing compound. Plumber on standby.

Don’t have the space…

I have removed a bath and will be permanently capping off the redundant 22mm hot /cold copper pipes.

They are currently capped with JS Speedfit push on, which was the quickest way.
Before I insulate, plasterboard and wetwall over the top of them, should I replace the Speedfit? If so, with what?

I have solder ring, end feed and compression end caps on hand

That was my understanding of the regs.

The conduit is retained against the wall with screws and a few dabs of adhesive around and inbetween.

I'm now regretting the adhesive given the section that has come proud of the wall. I'll have a look at it once bedtime is over.

@bluehuw -

as painter I'd want that 10mm below the existing level

The room is getting skimmed by a plasterer first. My understanding is that'll be c.3mm

Overall I'm thinking about ripping it all out and using capping instead. My hope was that the conduit would make things easier and also allow for say a CAT cable in case we ever wanted to run a line down the garden. The location of the second socket was planned so that a hole through the wall comes out in a descreate but practial spot.

Just run the cat now either to a cavity or a wall plate. That's what I did and some runs still arent terminated, with known loops of cable under the airing cupboard and my daughter's bedroom

Get yerself some Loctite 55

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14056664/

I was recently told that you need to be wrapping 20 turns for rad valves.

Manufacturing tolerances must be pretty bollocks, I guess.

Ha, I went with 10 plus compound. Put a bit of water in but not under pressure yet. No drips. Will fill properly tomorrow when I'm less tired and annoyed.

Want to replace tap in kitchen.

I believe the current flexi hose terminates with a male end piece. New tap came with female connector.

flexi hose (female) > male isolation valve > copper pipe, correct?

Anything to bear in mind when I take the old flexi hose off? As there is no isolation valve anywhere near, just the main stop cock I assume there could be a lot of water?

Will the old compression nut come off okay? Or might I need to cut the copper pipe?

Want to make sure I have everything required to avoid not having water. Due to the current lack of isolation valve if I fuck it up then no water for whole house :)

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Want to make sure I have everything required to avoid not having water. Due to the current lack of isolation valve if I fuck it up then no water for whole house :)

Consider fitting isolation valves on both pipes whilst you're there.

I will be as that’s the hot and cold pipe so I will need to do both anyway

Osmo Polyx seems to be recommended on here for worktops?

As much as I'm a big fan of Osmo it doesn't stop cup rings and might not stop coffee stains either.

We've got a lovely table @dbr made for us treated with Osmo and covered in cup rings because I said we should use coasters but the other half wasn't having it. He has now accepted this, so eventually I will sand and retreat it and we WILL use coasters!

Being very honest, that needs to be deeper. I agree with @JonoMarshall that 5mm is fine, a bit more would be even better.

I don't know how much of the theory you know but cables in walls run in permitted zones, and the protection should come from mechanical protection (conduit or capping) plus a 30 mA RCD on your ring main. I believe there is no minimum depth under the regs, but there is a maximum (50mm) - this makes sense because you could just run conduit over the wall. I mean, it would look shit, but you could.

I'm presuming you already know about extending ring mains, not to run a spur off a spur etc.

I think you're using oval conduit there(not sure?), if so it's OK but trunking with a clip on cover is much easier as you can run the cables then pop the cover on afterwards. I'm deeply unsure about the screws (how do you avoid the cables?) through the conduit but if you're thinking about capping anyway that style of trunking could be an alternative.

I am not an electrician (so usual pinch of salt on my advice) and you should get this worked checked by one and a minor works cert issued, but I feel your pain as I'm currently in the middle of moving five 2 gang sockets and installing two new ones because architects...

My father in law used mayonnaise to clean up lots of stains on a beautiful pine table I have.