Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Is there anything I can do to fix this hole on these bs79 shifters? The plastic cover doesn’t look replaceable as it’s all part of the lever.

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Halfords https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/headsets-stems/clarks-1-12f8in-semi-integrated-headset-steel-401060.html 12 quid

If that's in reply to the other headset question, then it's the wrong kind, although they stock the right kind for the same price.

If that's aimed at @Quincy it's the wrong (ZS44) type, although they also have the right (EC34) type for the same price

@gbj_tester thought I hit reply to @Quincy and linked to this one https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/headsets-stems/clarks-1-12f8in-threadless-headset-steel-400922.html

Not a great headset but cheapest and quickest to get off the high street

I have a shifting issue I can't get to the bottom of. Shifting is completely fine at the either end of the cassette (i.e. lower and higher gears). Somewhere around the middle I get issues - e.g. it shifts 2 sprockets when I only clicked once, or starts chattering, rumbling, and sounding/feeling rough.

SRAM 1x NX cassette (11 speed)
NX thumb shifter (11 speed).
11 speed chain checked with relevant Park Tool and not needing replacing.
Cleaned, lubed, and cables and housing are all sound.

The only thing I can think of is the cassette has got worn around the middle sprockets but none of the others (but then I'd expect the chain to be worn too). Thoughts?

Bent hanger?

As stated already, bent hanger is likely cause. Only other thing I’ve seen with that symptom was a cassette where the lock ring thing had come undone and the cassette parted in to two pieces.

Anyone know how to remove the freehub from a Halo Spindoctor 2 hub? It's threaded, but can't seem to find out where an Allen key actually fits... Nothing on the halo website either that I can find...

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It'll be a big key in the middle, probably 14mm+ as it looks like they can be converted to 14mm threaded axle, will be 12 point rather usual 6 looking for extra axle clearance like the ring part of most spanners.

No chance of getting an Allen that size in with the axle. Do I need to somehow knock out the axle first?

Do I need to somehow knock out the axle first?

Yeah, that's how pretty much all of the threaded ones work.

Gotcha. Thanks.

Best to wack out from the free hub side?

Any ideas yet on what’s in Silca chain stripper besides magic?

denatured petrol

Bent hanger?

I’d say unlikely if it’s good at both ends, ime hanger issues mean good shifting at one end, not tother, but it’s definitely worth checking.

Any recommendations for security skewers that are strong enough to use with disc brakes? Modern frame so vertical dropouts and lawyers lips

Usually yeah, I've had ones that are twisted rather than the usual bent inwards act as mentioned. Could also be play in the jockey wheels, play in the mech joints or poor set up of the b adjust screw that might be worth looking at.

More bb questions - took my drivetrain apart to fix a clicking/pinging noise from my left crank, put it all back together again and peace and quiet for a few days, click has now started up again. I fear it may be the fact that I didn't clean the threads well enough (didn't use degreaser) so may have to take it apart again to have a go; would there be any issues with just removing the NDS crank/lockring of a BB while leaving the crank/DS of the BB in and tightened?

Edit: Mea culpa, decided to take the whole thing apart for the second time and discovered that I may have cross threaded the DS (turns out the turn-in-wrong-direction-until-it-seats trick doesn't always work); aligned it by putting the NDS in first, threaded it back in for the millionth time and now the bb seems like it's working a treat.

I’ve been using the Hexlox skewers on a disc frame for a while, no problems when torqued to spec.

Pinhead skewers have been fine for me

Both openable

What do you use?

Removed.

I was asking what you use to prevent wheel theft.