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• #41227
Double as in two switches on the plate or two switches looped at different locations (2 way switching eg switches at the top and bottom of the stairs for 1 light)
Neither is hard. Just take photos before you start and note any labels on the switch terminals (L1,L2), second option needs a 2 way switch.
Edit: what Tango said
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• #41228
A light switch plate with 2 switches on is also called a 2 gang switch by a lot of electrical retailers.
You can also specify plate size, so a single plate 2 gang switch to fit the size of a single back box.
As the other guys have already mentioned you might need 2 way switches, normally only a little bit more expensive to have them anyway.
Also worth checking that your choice of switch is not too deep for the current backbox.
Make sure you turn the power off and check it's off. If you plan on doing any future electrical work it's probably worth buying one of these :-
https://cpc.farnell.com/martindale-electric/vt12/voltage-tester/dp/IN06186?mckv=snXKP9pzw_dc|pcrid|490691434487|kword||match||plid||slid||product|IN06186|pgrid|47203461775|ptaid|pla-371077696705|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING-945672631-47203461775-IN06186&s_kwcid=AL!5616!3!490691434487!!!network}!371077696705!&gclid=CjwKCAjwkeqkBhAnEiwA5U-uM7od7KPSJ8apHgLPfeIqGB_z1ipnrdizJ-wpJI7l2d3WUPDIkjEwKhoCqssQAvD_BwE -
• #41229
Thanks will investigate the hamilton brush, probably buy 2 as I was having to clean the brush after half an hour so will rotate them, think it was the heat that wasn’t helping as the brush was gumming up after half an hours use and not flowing well off the brush.
might check the weather before i spend 2 days doing the 2 coats of metalshield top coat as painting in 30º isn’t much fun. -
• #41230
Has anyone used black pine tar to treat/paint/colour their shed/house-cladding/gardenroom.
I’m looking at this stuff, less expensive option is black outdoor paint from brewers.
Although Vikings didn’t use brewers paint on their boats …..
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• #41231
Cheers all
If you plan on doing any future electrical work it's probably worth buying one of these
Some minor bits. Is one of those light up screw drivers and a multimeter sufficient?
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• #41232
The light up screwdrivers are not considered that safe by most of the safety orientated guys. You are basically using your finger to make the connection between a live line and earth. All that stands between you and electrocution is the quality of a tiny neon lamp. The odds of survival are pretty good but they are not recommended.
Multimeters are considered a risk because you may have them set to the wrong range or type of metering or the fuse may have blown etc. Basically considered too complex to be properly safe.
I have used both in the past though when I did very little electrical work, at that point most people will disconnect power to the whole house and check the connection they are working on just in case. That does remain safe in most cases.
I use my voltage tester so often that the price is not that important. I do have a tester for the tester as well! That doesn't always get used. I guess it all depends on how much electrical problem solving you might want to do in the future.
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• #41233
I have a similar but more basic/cheaper tester
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TKXT1V6/?th=1I don't do a great deal of electrical stuff and I'm reasonably confident in my house wiring (had a full rewire a few years back) but I figured it's not an area to take a risk and also means I can do stuff with just turning the appropriate breaker off rather than turning the power to the whole house off.
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• #41234
Cheers.
In terms of the jobs I was going to do, I'd planned to shut all the power off just to be safe anyway. Maybe nievely I don't view any as that major...
Job list:
- swap 1 x 2 gang light switch
- swap 1 x 1 gang light switch (possibly for a dimmer
- add a fused spur + socket to power a WiFi mesh router(?)
- add a fused spur + socket to power a switched controlled led light
- Stick a weatherproof 2 gang socket on one end of an armoured cable and a plug on the other end.
On the subject of dimmers I was wondering about having a dimmer switch for our single sitting room bulb...
Choose a dimmer with a wattage rating that meets or exceeds the total wattage of all the light bulbs the dimmer will control. For example, if the dimmer controls a fixture with ten 75-watt bulbs, you need a dimmer rated for 750 watts or higher.
... so for a led equivalent 60w blub, what do I need for dimmable, non-buzzy, non-blowy switch?
- swap 1 x 2 gang light switch
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• #41235
I'd go with that! I wonder where it sits in the league of creosote and bitumen paint... with that said I'd want to ask the manufacturer if the only product that can cover it / be applied on top of it, is itself
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• #41236
That option is actually worse than a testing screwdriver or multimeter in some cases. They have their uses but they're definitely not for testing conductors you're about to handle.
As an example you don't use one of those in the entire electrical installation course because they don't meet the standard for a voltage tester.
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• #41237
V-pro dimmer from Screwfix. The equivalent to 60w in led is 6w.
The rest of your list does look relatively simple. I guess you are going fused spur because don't want to extend a ring for the sockets. If you have to run the cable it's pretty easy to run 2 and extend the ring.
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• #41238
Why is it better to extend the ring please?
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• #41239
The ring gives you 32amp capacity but it also allows you to add a spur from the new socket at a later time if you want. You can't spur from a spur.
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• #41240
Ah cool thank you
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• #41241
Pretty much. In both places it'll be easier in terms of logistics to just run one cable.
Both of them are for specific devices with low draw, so I won't need to add another spur after.
Although you're making me think about whether I could diy another 2 gang socket into the other corner. That would be extending the ring obviously. But as the room is going to be RePlastered soon maybe now is the time.
How easy is it?
We've already spent a fair bit, so not up for another £800 or whatever on an electrician.
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• #41242
Current set up is like this.
Light blue = existing sockets
Purple = potential location for one extra 2 gang (unsure which I'd choose)
(Green = existing socket inside a cupboard that is probably a spur that I will add a fuse, switch and power a light)
Red = sockets in the next room....Now really wish I'd thought of this before the skirting went on... Although I'm pretty sure you're not meant to do that anymore.
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• #41243
Desk top arrives tomo. Pretty sure I’ve got the dims wrong, but we will see.
Built a support in preparation…
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• #41244
I like how you've designed the support. It looks good.
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• #41245
Thanks! Made it out of left over banister bits and spaced to match.
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• #41246
Anyone have a mitre saw they can recommend?
Need to cut plaster coving, skirting boards and then the Mrs will use it to make painting frames
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• #41247
Real nice ! What’s the floor going to be ?
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• #41248
4mm glue down ply, if I dare try and glue it down…
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• #41249
Valchromat arrived, they rounded both lengths up by 3mm 😭
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• #41250
sand 3mm channels in the walls at each end, super snug fit.*
super frustrating when the easy bit turns out to be the bit that requires a load of faff. that's pretty much how everything goes in my current projects.
*I am not a diy doctor.
Take a photo before you disconnect any cables.