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• #502
On a rather smaller scale, I need a 3' x 2' shed and these two have made the shortlist
https://www.elbecgardenbuildings.co.uk/2-x-3-560mm-x-870mm-shire-overlap-tool-store/p3558
https://www.elbecgardenbuildings.co.uk/3-x-2-950mm-x-618mm-shire-shiplap-tall-store/p2718
Ideally I'd prefer the overlap one as it's a bit smaller but 6mm cladding sounds very flimsy. Is there likely to be much actual difference between the two. I'm not expecting it to be super weatherproof but somewhat decent would be good. -
• #503
First stage of kee klamp benches complete, just need to get two sheets of 8 X 4 ply to sort out shelves and tops
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• #504
And sorted out the access to the roof as that now gets the most sun in the garden..
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• #505
Proper cool. Is roof access for plants etc or will it be a hangout spot?
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• #506
Is that not in breach of planning rules?
My neighbours would straight on the blower to the ward councillor. -
• #507
Strictly for maintenance!
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• #508
Not really a shed, and also not really mine but here's the playhouse that Grandad made.
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• #509
Are the overhangs on the garden rooms I'm seeing mainly for solar shading? Mine will be North facing, so maybe not a huge concern?
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• #510
Maybe - but if you mean the typical type with bifolds across the front - probably also for a bit of weather protection.
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• #511
Hmm yeah ok. I'll be using French doors so possible more weather proof, and again, facing away from the prevailing wind in a pretty sheltered spot. Was laying out a new design last night and trying to stick to whole/ half sheets for the roof.
Biggest decision now is whether go for flat roof within PD or go for planning and 2-3m mono-pitched roof. The latter appeals as it'd give bike hanging space in the eaves. Having a poke about on planning portal shows some precedents but usually in bigger gardens than ours.
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• #512
Put an application in - start building - if you get permission - go higher - if not stick at 2.5m ? Possible to design it like this - bit more work I guess - potentially annoying if planners hold things up.
I would allow for a decent eaves 100mm say over the doors just to keep the rain off. I fucked this up on my build (in progress) - so i've not got as much as I would have liked.
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• #513
Thanks. Yeah was looking at yours for inspiration although ours will be a bit bigger as it has to be shed/home office/occasional bunk house. I think I have >100mm overhang on the design so far. Not sure I fancy a 2 stage design, but I guess the slab will be the same whatever.
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• #514
Any downsides to box profile cladding as a roofing material that I'm not thinking of? Noisey when it rains? I'm quite fond of this aesthetic and will almost certainly be using it on the sides and back. Maybe the planners wouldn't favour it on the more visible sides though.
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• #515
Someone on here did a lovely black tin shed project - forget who - there’s a whole thread.
I dunno I’d worry about rain noise really - be aware the proper detail is to double batten (vertical first then horizontal counter battens) . I guess black isn’t so good for solar gain either but it looks cool so ….
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• #516
Ah ok! That explains why I was having a headache getting the fixing points to align with my studs & vertical battens only! Ali Dymock seems to think that you'd get away with hoizontal battens only if they're chamfered but probably not worth the risk of water pooling if it finds its way in.
Black tin shed rings a bell now you mention it, will UTFS.
Edit: completely missed the link
edit edit: the shed will be under a big oak, which occasionally drops quite large branches (though it did get a good trim a couple of years ago, so hopefully less now) so I should probably consider durability from that.
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• #517
yep - also leafs and general bits dropping on it build up and sit there and potentially grow moss etc and slightly increase chance of water penetration.
With the roof the trad way is to do battens across the rafters with the waterproofing membrane gently sagging under them- then if water gets through it doesn't sit (this is what i've done). But more minimal roof eaves to wall details like your reference probably deal with the roof and walls in the same way, so studs and roof fully lined in osb, wrapped in membrane then two layers of battens, then metal. Bear in mind you need to vent the cavity at the bottom / eaves / ridge - and should really use insect mesh too (i forgot to do this !!)
All this said - were talking proper details here (more or less good enough for a house) - which may be overkill depending on your aims.
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• #518
I like the look of this stuff. Having the insulation built in should save time money and effort? But it’s been vetoed by the powers that be at home.
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• #519
Mine as it stands at the moment. Far to say it’s a project.
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• #520
Handy, how do you finish off the edge so that the insulation doesn't get soaked by runoff?
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• #521
The insulation is 100% waterproof so you just cap the ends with a finishing strip. I don’t want to use it is quite the way they expect so was thinking mitre, glue and sealant.
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• #522
I used this for my roof, was definitely far quicker than any other construction type. Not sure saved money, but time and effort yes.
For @Polygon on YouTube the guy from 'the restoration couple' built a full workshop out the stuff. Different profile panels as the walls. Pretty impressive, worth a watch if you're thinking about going that route as he breaks it down pretty thoroughly. Expect costs to be more than whatever he says they were though though as a few years old I think
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• #523
Nice one, thanks.
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• #524
Going to line my wooden shed with pallet wood in one corner, should I be putting any sort of membrane between the wood and the shed? Pallet wood will screw to the batons inside the shed.
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• #525
Good to hear it does work. I meant cheaper because time is money etc.
Got it