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Could be the case- I think it’s mostly just not using tools with enough leverage, and adjustable spanners are also utterly crap when you really need to put a lot of force through them. Wouldn’t like to blame the LBS without knowing for sure!
@youClown The silverline 32mm spanner is a beast, should make a lot of difference. Remember to secure the Bb removal tool to the bb using a crank bolt and washer if possible, means you can really crank on it without worrying about the tool slipping off. Always use the ring side when possible
MCamb-
You were right and it was just more leverage required. I don’t have washers easily to hand but read somewhere you could use a headset cap, no idea where author finds his headset caps but all mine had holes too small so I improvised with a piece of plastic that had a hole in. Then got tired of waiting the 2 days for post so took both my headset cone spanners and duct taped them together for more sturdiness, and stood on the end - much success. The LBS had indeed greased the threads so it came out without too much fuss. And when I say “it” I mean this disaster..
Thanks so much everyone for the advice - this forum is one of my favourite places on the Internet.
Have now put it all back together (and stepped on the wrenches to tighten the BB) after a brief cross threading scare (my BB DS shell seemed to have two 1mm deep notches across perpendicular to the threads for some odd reason) and the bike has survived a three mile journey so far with no creaks or squeaks from the BB. Now wondering if it would be worth bringing it in to a shop somewhere to get everything properly tightened..? Don’t trust how tight I’ve been able to get the cranks on with just my hex keys and am slightly paranoid that I might be riding around with a loose BB and everything is going to catastrophically fail on me on a long ride.
youClown
Given the trouble you are having shifting the existing bb, please do not take it to the same lbs. They have clearly not greased or properly prepared the threads.