Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Yep, same happened to me a few weeks ago...

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Those are for rim brakes, no?

Another day, another fucking problem...

1cm clearance on drive side, 1mm clearance NDS.

Tyre fitted piss? wheel dishing out? Who wants a stab at the right answer?

Quick way to test wheel dishing?

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Quick way to test wheel dishing?

Put the wheel in the other way round, bit awkward at the back though.

You in the middle of something? I'd probably just give half the spokes half a turn and figure out the problem afterwards if so. Maybe check the hub first in case something has come loose and the locknuts ain't tight.

I didn't think that would work with cassette and rotor and can't be arsed taking them off. Might try sitting on kitchen table with a stack of cards on each side or something.

It's the grrl's bike with another bike's wheels fitted. I'll give it a quick look but working on bikes these days is literally flipping a switch in my brain that turns me ragey for some reason so I think it's better I forget about it and she takes it to the bike shop.

You'd probably manage if you removed the mech and brake caliper.

Okay, pulled rotor off and flipped it. Quicker than I thought, but I still hate bikes.

Now the gap looks better both sides - about 5mm from tyre edge to frame.

What does that mean though? Probably more gap on the NDS now so the dishing is shit?

i fancy removing my reverb stealth and running my bike with a stubby post dh style until i can afford a mechanical post with longer travel. i don’t know what type it is, sram say there’s 3 types of connection at the bottom of the post. If i undo the connection will i get sprayed with hydraulic oil? should i tape some cable outer to the hose so that when i pull the hose out there’ll be something in its place?

The wheel isn’t Ai dished for a ‘dale is it?

I don't know what that means. It came off a Mason Bokeh and was either straight or the Bokeh simply had enough clearance to deal with the wonk.

Cannondale actually moved its entire right drive-side outboard by 6mm. Calling this its Asymmetric Integration (Ai) drivetrain, the chainstays are asymmetrical to increase tyre clearance, fitting 40c tyres easily. This move requires a standard 142x12mm rear wheel to be redished 6mm to the left.

Sorry fella, cannondale offset the drive train 6mm to the right on some of their bikes Ai ( asymmetric integration) so the rim sits 6mm to the nds in a normal frame. (I think, we’ll it’s why I didn’t get a cheap pair of carbon wheels a while ago, so I hope I wasn’t told shit)
Must type faster, but yeah, that.

Sounds like the dishing is off then, tighten whichever spokes you need to 1/2 turn then back off 1/4 all the way round and check again.

I'm gonna get her to take it to the LBS and have them check properly. If they don't have time or whatever then I'll either do the spokes on it or I'll just swap the tyre from Sendero 47 to a Venture 47 and that should buy her clearance.

Yikes... Thanks for the heads up!

if it's any use I run sram 10 speed shifters with a sram 11 speed mech. Might be cheaper just to swap the cassette out if you don't mind losing a gear

Also, are you sure? as @andyp said, I'm fairly certain even the first rim brake hydraulic were 11 speed

SRAM’s Rival 22 component group will also feature SRAM’s newest hydraulic braking system as an option, joining RED 22, Force 22 and Force CX1 as another complete component group to offer the HRD (Hydraulic Road Disc) and Hydraulic Road Rim) hydraulic brakes, but at a more affordable price point.

https://www.cxmagazine.com/sram-rival22-component-group-first-ride-review?utm_content=cmp-true

LBS didn't have a dishing tool but did the half turn thing. Looks better now. Hopefully her frame doesn't flex too much and she shaves off a sidewall.

Attempt to push bearings into this wheel using skewer and sockets seems to have failed.

Dunno what's going on. Previous wheels have all been fine doing it this bodge way. Hammer them out and try again before they're too wonky and stuck or continue hoping the hub shell eventually straightens these dickheads out. I know the answer and I don't like it.

Remembering they were free wheels, I involved a hammer. Bearings seated. Rage subsiding.

So stuck pedal ! Very stuck .
Massive allen key fail
Penetraiting oil fail
Air gun fail
Hammer fail
Heat till glow fail (the other bit melted)
Whats next ?

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Sounds like you've done most things already. I'd clamp the remains of the axle in a vice, very hard, file flats into it if necessary then find a way to add leverage and rotate the crank, which is harder on the driveside as you can't just pop a fuck off pole over it, a bit of hammering with a soft head might help too.

I have bought a SRAM gx 2.1 rear derailleur and whilst fitting, noticed that it's flapping about like a flaccid thing instead of being properly secured to the dropout like all my other derailleurs. Vendors customer service says it's a-ok, I am unconvinced. What does the hive mind say?

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It won't do that when you've put a chain on.

Weld a rod to the axle. Install a sacrificial chainring, and bolt that down to a table or board. Put on safety glasses, and either break it or free it.

If you’re near se24, I have the necessary kit 👍