The Campagnolo Thread

This is annoying. I was told (admittedly a while ago - and probably by a Shimano salesman, thinking about it) that you needed a special tool that cost hundreds of pounds to change Ultra Torque cranks. Is it really just a 10mm allen key?

Ultra Torque is actually dreamy to fit, super easy, just a 10mm hex key. BUT you need a very long one as the bolt is quite deep inside the crank

The short end on normal 10mm hex aren't long enough to get to it, and using the long side obviously doesnt give enough leverage.

Yup, I use a 10mm Allen key (long bit) inserted into the crank bolt, 10mm socket and extension bar on the stubby bit to provide leverage.

Agreed it was super easy, fitting that bearing retainer clip was fiddly as hell tho with my shit eyesight and sausage fingers.

And also I was a bit confused at first about the wavy washer, I thought the previous owner had fucked up a normal washer removing it or something, but its supposed to be like that :)

I bought one of these on Amazon for a tenner. It ended up arriving a bit late, so I resorted to using the long end of an allen key and managed to get enough leverage to fit the cranks. I haven't needed to re-tighten it since and it's been rock solid.

Becoming more persuaded by the minute the guy who told me about UT tools (who worked in a bike shop) just wanted me to take my bike there to get it serviced rather than me just buying a cheap tool/using a 10mm allen key and doing it myself.

Are you confusing Ultra Torque with Power Torque? The latter definitely needed an array of expensive proprietary tools.

That sounds the most likely explanation.

The campag ultra torque Allen key I found much easier to use as regular Allen keys were too slim to keep centred.

Power torque is easy to fit but a pain to get out.

The bearing puller is pricey, and necessary if you plan to swap bearings

A generic gear puller won’t work?

This is the wanted ad I've just put up.

WANTED,

A left hand Campagnolo Brifter lever 10 speed suitable for a triple set up. Anything considered, if it's a pair fine.Bits or non working The only parameters are Campag, 10 speed and triple.

Bit up a creek atm. Thanks!

I only actually need the shifting lever, (that broke on me the other day, which is another story) for a 2008 Centaur triple Brifter. If any has one or Brifter(s) to suit or know of any leads please do let me know.

I got a cheapo ice tools puller. Works fine, and long as you remember to remove the circlip.

You used to be able to just buy those as spares, the shifter lever on the Record ones is just plastic not like the carbon of the levers. I snapped this lever once when the hood rubber had torn and got wedged between the 2 levers and when I went to shift it just snapped in half.

I bought a spare lever at the time from SJS but just checked their website and they don't have any. The Cycle clinic guy has a right lever one but not a left.

I would have thought the shifter lever itself would be the same for all the 10 speed Centaur/Chorus/Record as they are separate from all the ratchety gubbins that differentiate the doubles and triples, but I'm not sure.

BUT LOOKY HERE...this looks to be exactly the thing you need, I'd contact this guy and beg and plead and make him an offer for a quick sale.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225414459639?hash=item347bbfb0f7:g:3eUAAOSwzbFj52Pg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsIQgx45nEBV8%2FsnGnrztL%2BmTsywDim%2FwJMhWXGa2cyvSPBs%2FwbvYns1mUYnoJ%2B6JTm1ZMI1GLLrE%2Bn2cvwvpOjWcschlAYdLcU4W25q2%2Bg8U4XNFr37LbMpenYhCQSGXh23F39uPMDnwyfC7FvrKKeuk40o0jtrroLlnFHVBbqRu7TMd%2FtaUFFS7wbXWQIflcgZ4D%2B7G%2B%2BWzRdcsgs6gYbnyz4%2BVIIk6lscVsjy9d1V6%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-rYu-rLYQ

If its just the brake lever bit you need I have a left Record lever, left over from me smashing into the back of a van on the Aldwych, all the other bits of the shifter were destroyed or recycled so I don't have them, just the lever, but free if any use to you.

You can buy a new one here if you have no luck : https://www.velozone.co.uk/products/campagnolo-ec-ch329-complete-left-shifting-lever

If he doesn't want this, I'd be interested in taking it.

Hi folks.

Giving my bike a clean yesterday I realised my rear rotor has a bit of play in it. It looks like the actual rotor part (rather than the black spider), is shifting a few mm in all difrections, as if it's not completely bonded to the spider. The spider is solid, no movement, so it's not a case of the lockring not being tight enough.

Front rotor doesn't have the same problem. Is this a death trap/warranty issue?

This kind of play is normal with semi-floating rotors. From Campagnolo manual - section 2.2 - pg 8

https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_2362_Technical%20Manual%20-%20Disc_Brake%20-%20Campagnolo_Rev04_05_2022_ENG.pdf

Ahh gotcha. Thanks very much!

The float happens at the buttons - the round pieces joining the spider to the rotor. A floating rotor normally gives the most stopping power. When you grab the brake lever it squeezes the brake pads onto the rotor which has the ability to move and conform to the brake pads giving maximum rotor to pad contact.

That's really interesting, i wasn't aware of that. Does that also mean, generally speaking, floating rotors will be quieter than non-floating rotors?

If anyone's after Chorus 12 bits, some great bargains on PlanetX at the mo. Outstanding mechanical road groupset.

Does anyone know if a 12 speed front mech will work on 11 speed 2015> shifters

The float as designed to accommodate tolerance differences in manufacture, for example pads moving at different rates as seals have different stiction. If the calpiers are misaligned then to a certain degree the misalignment may be nullified, but that'll create noise the same as a fixed rotor. Pad noise will still occur even with the perfectly setup system.

Solid rotors do have a place through as they're cheaper and also in continuous dust / dirt floating rotors can become none floating as the buttons can jammed with debris.