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• #502
You can use the frame itself as an anchor to bend the center strut. Just leave the canti posts un mounted, but the center done up tight and pull up. I’ve done it, worked well.
Also you can mount a fork mounted cable stop behind the rack to get a good straddle cable angle and decreased shutter.
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• #503
I considered using the fork bridge to bend the rack, but think I'll do this off the bike in a vice. Being chrome plated and 44 years old just want to play it safe, although alu the rack is quite beefy. Good shout on the fork mounted cable hanger, was worried the stem mounted unit might kink the cable slightly as there's not a lot of room.
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• #504
Pretty sure that’s stainless, not alu btw.
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• #505
You're right, I'll stick this in the vice.
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• #506
What Mudguards are you using and what width if you can remember?
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• #507
Velo Orange 45mm.
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• #508
tysvm
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• #509
Make the triple great again. Bit filthy but should clean up okay, will enjoy doing this now I've done the hard part of sourcing the group.
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• #510
Good find!
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• #511
Cooking on gas now. Only fly in the ointment is the limit screws on the rear mech are seized in place and the heads have rounded. Not too surprising as every nut on the group was red-face-tight. The fact it'll probably take a lifetime to find another isn't lost on me. Now where's that drill?
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• #512
Ooooof that is a stylish combination of bicycle components
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• #513
Nice. Interested to see where you go, bdhu-wise, on the brifters.
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• #514
Perfect group for that frame!
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• #515
Looks great. Nice bar/hood positioning as well.
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• #516
Jambon's back! F*ck yeah!
Great build as always.
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• #517
i have had quick success with the same problem in the past with a drill.
as i understood from tester a normal bit with normal drill direction already does something "physics/engineering" that the screw unscrews by itself. *
failing that a screwunscrewdrillbit.
i´m a bit lost for words it seems.
*no guarantee from internet stranger -
• #518
Thanks for all the love. Not quite sure if the silver wheels 'work' with the look but no doubt some black bar tape will tone down the shiny-ness. They came with the group and will get me rolling so can stay for now.
The rear mech is fighting me, both screw heads have snapped off so have bought a small cutting disc to hopefully flatten the rear of the threads and drill them out from the back.
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• #519
Getting there slowly, although cables still need a final trim and tweak. Condor Cycles were super helpful as ever, but said finding the part I need for the damaged rear mech (RD-RE120) will be tricky as Campagnolo no longer stock these spares. Now on the look out for a damaged, or cheap, Campagnolo 10 speed rear mech to harvest the part needed. Wish me luck.
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• #520
Turned out way nice than I though it would. Really good looking bike. Did you damage the carbon or are the screws just stuck still?
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• #521
Thanks a lot, other than the rear mech I'm pleased. The carbon cover is fine, it's just the screws seem to be welded into the metal insert that's behind it. I would have thought any Campag 10s rear mech 'cover' will fit, it's just the lower mech arm that's model specific depending on short, medium or long cage.
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• #522
Drill out and retap a size up?
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• #523
Yeah tried that already unfortunately, due to the awkward shape I can't drill straight so just made it even worse.
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• #524
One of those screw extractor thingies also didn't work?
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• #525
Flatten the heads with a Dremel first maybe? You sprayed any penetrating oil down there as well? They won't have used any thread lock so it should help a little if its fused. Or can you drill from the rear back through?
Talking of new frontiers, some Shimano STX cantis turned up. With the rack on the front looks like I'll need a longer straddle(?) cable but not a big deal.
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