Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

The fork has a d-shaped steerer. Anyway, THAT isn't the issue, you have to trust me that the fork and bars are set up for internal routing and thus far, the only issue with the frame is this rear hose routing which I assume has some resolution I'm not seeing at the moment.

Ah right, there were a few 135 thru things made but not for long, most thru stuff will be 142 or bigger for boosts, with a couple of 142 qr things made, which was daft. At least you're looking for a standard qr wheel, rather than needing to track down weird dead thru axle stuff.

Well, it's good that I know that now rather than, say, before I bought it * rolls eyes at self *. Cheers for the assistance, though. I learn something new every day, etc.

Doesn't sound like you're missing anything. How does the grommet come out of the frame? Did they give you a blank replacement if you are routing internally? Can you see / access the guide via the bottom of the headtube?

You'll route it through the frame, around the steerer then out from the headtube through the funny spacers and then into the stem. That was what I did with the last Windspace, pretty much a SL7 copy.

Caveat: Didn't bother to Google the model of Windspace frame you mentioned.

does anyone have a m18 thread tap? i want to extend an existing thread deeper into the material for use with a longer bolt having rounded the first 2/3 of thread on the axle of some fancy fsa cranks. all a little bit last ditch and hopeful at the moment.

What tpi? Might be good to post a piccy of the hole as well

I think you missed the point a little too; it's not what the routing is, but how I disconnect the internal hose guide.

Anyway, Joe from China Cycling (works for Winspace) reckons I should cut it but is checking with the product people on Monday.

My bike has been neglected a bit last 2 months and has got a bit of water into the Asgard bike shed. Tape it mouldy.
The rear mech shifter does not return nicely to the position it should do. Is this a new inner cable job?
Bonus/non mechanical question, any tips for getting mould off a helmet!?
Cheers

1 Attachment

any tips for getting mould off a helmet!?

1 Attachment

Is this a new inner cable job?

It's more likely to be the shifter itself, but wouldn't hurt to replace the cable anyway, give the shifter workings a blast with some gt85 and go through the gears, hopefully it'll help, you can give them a proper clean and regrease if so or just keep doing the same occasionally. If it doesn't help you can try stripping things back further to find the sticky bit, but it's fiddly and prone to fucking things up more.

Cheers

i don’t know much about threads and can’t say the tpi but the bolt it takes is fairly standard for fsa, both kinds i have bought have fitted. can’t believe i was so stupid to round this in the first place,

2 Attachments

Hello,

Looking to put a Shimano Deore LX M56X series front derailleur on a '94 dale M500.
I've measured the chainstay angle to 69.8 degrees using the catalogue photo.

Question is: will it take the M563 or M566 models which have a 66-69 degrees stated chainstay angle? the older M560 doesn't state an angle, is that cause they didn't bother or it is less fussy about angles?

edit: I haven't bought the FD yet, the photo is just from ebay, so I can't simply try it out.

edit2: I'm getting the idea there are only 2 sizes: 63-66 and 66-69 (or catch all 63-69 models) where road bikes tend to have a lower angle due to the bigger wheels and mtb's tend to need the higher angle model. So I'm probably splitting hairs worrying about 69.8 degrees vs. 69.

2 Attachments

Any ideas what's wrong with the shifter/front derailleur on my partner's bike? It is very reluctant to shift up or down and either won't shift at all or it will only shift to the big ring with a lot of force. Have tried playing with cable tension and limit screws but to no avail. Maybe the height or angle is off but it looks fine to me? It originally came with bar end friction shifters but when I swapped to riser bars I bought these SRAM grip shifts. I assumed they would be compatible with the Shimano Alivio derailleur, but am I wrong?

3 Attachments

I need to trim a hydro hose, but I don't have the fancy tool - what should I use instead? Cable cutters? A Stanley knife?

I’d go for a super sharp blade, razor sharp, on a craft knife so that you can slice through with minimal crushing. Cable cutters will just crush the hose.
Get the hose held securely on a flat surface, and cut by pressing down and moving forward at the same time, blade so that you can go all the way through without the body of the knife stopping you. With a sharp blade it’s an easy cut so no great forces required.

An adequate (for occasional use) cutter doesn’t need to cost a lot - this one came in a kit from Epic and it’s good:
https://epicbleedsolutions.com/products/hydraulic-brake-hose-cutter

It originally came with bar end friction shifters but when I swapped to riser bars I bought these SRAM grip shifts.

Did it shift ok before? Or: Can you make it shift into the big ring by yanking on the relevant downtube cable? If so the shifter isn't moving enough cable.

No it wasn't shifting great before but admittedly it didn't get ridden very much before changing to flat bars so it's hard to say if it was the same issue. One thing that occured to me is that it could be a 2 speed derailleur, as with enough tinkering I can get it to work nicely with two rings but not all 3. I wouldn't be surprised if this was the case as the rest of the bike seems fairly cobbled together out of someone's parts bin

Thanks

Have I missed a trick here or did Shimano do me dirty?

Brand new BH90 hose

1 Attachment

There's no hose at all there, you've been ripped off.

Never mind that, they've sent him one less hole than he paid for.

I done paid for that there hole

Did you find a solution? I suspect it is a glass fibre tube that they insert with a semi-rigid mandrel after the frame comes out of the mold. I wouldn't see an issue with poking a hole in in with a drill if you have the access through the exit hole.