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• #5077
I'm not sure Brad was after buying 27x1 1/4 rims but who knows?
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• #5078
not sure Brad was after buying 27x1 1/4 rims
The comment applied equally to 700×32C for the few people who indulged in French practices back then.
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• #5079
I like OKO magic milk
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• #5080
Never had a problem with Orange Seal in the last two years, used both Regular and Endurance
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• #5081
Sealants appear to be like chain lube, we all either think whatever we use is best until it fails us or are constantly searching for the holy grail. Most seem to work most of the time but sometimes don’t.
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• #5083
We install a lot of hookless tires. It's a minefield of max pressures and compatibility. Even if I never had one jumping out on me customers had, always going over max pressure.
It's not a problem AFAIK on lower pressure setups but if you're a big guy and need big tires rock hard I'll give it a second look, not worth it for a few grams less, just another cost cutting measure disguised as evolution. -
• #5084
In my experience regular orange seal more likely to seal bigger holes at higher road pressure psi than the endurance. No experience of other brands
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• #5085
Given mention of hookless rims above, do ‘regular’ tubeless tyres work or do they need to be UST?
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• #5086
There's a list of approved tires for each wheel brand, then there's the tire brands who say they are hookless compatible.
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• #5087
+1 for Orange seal here. Comfortably the best I’ve used.
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• #5088
Exactly, it’s a non conclusive minefield!!!
Initial conclusion is that the juice is not worth the squeeze.
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• #5089
Anyone had a flat spot develop on a tyre? Or is it the wheel maybe?
Can't recall skidding or breaking hard so thinking maybe faulty. Nothing visible on the rim or tyre
1 Attachment
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• #5090
I had the bead slowly separating like these more than once. I don't know if it's actually a fault or maybe knocking it into potholes and the like.
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• #5091
Yeah, may ask if it's faulty but more likely JRA
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• #5092
Is the tyre seated properly? Have had tyres look like this when they haven’t quite gone up onto the shelf correctly
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• #5093
It was a new bike/ wheel/ tyre and hasn’t been a problem for 1500 miles, and I’m not aware that I’ve hit anything substantial so I’m putting it down to a fragile carcass. It’s started to square off anyhow but I would expect 2000+ miles on it.
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• #5094
Anybody else (other than last page) with the new Silca "ultimate" sealant yet? I ordered few bottles last week but after reading the thread in weightweenies (summary: apart from the now-fixed manufacturing errors in the first batches, apparently it may eat your rim tape...) I might just stick to Stans Race. I don't have exposed nipples (good to know) nor the need for rim tape but I'm not about to use multiple sealants/brands depending on which wheel I'm pouring it in.
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• #5095
That weightweenies thread would do your head in. 25 pages and still no real consensus on the sealant!
I’m not convinced about the rim tape business - most of the posts on it seem to refer to loss of printed logos.
I think dancing james has it: "we all either think whatever we use is best until it fails us or are constantly searching for the holy grail. Most seem to work most of the time but sometimes don’t.”
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• #5096
That weightweenies thread would do your head in. 25 pages and still no real consensus on the sealant!
They're too busy trying to outsmart each other I guess
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• #5097
Beginning to have my doubts about mucoff sealant lately.
Never heard anyone complain about Orange Seal or Stans.
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• #5098
Is there a fool proof way to make the valve hole in tubeless rim tape? Think I've been living life with a slow leak from there (replaced the valve).
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• #5099
i use this
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• #5100
Soldering iron is my favoured method, though I guess you could heat up a screwdriver for the same effect
Thank you, good to hear as that’s what I’m edging towards