Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Noice

My hubs for some all silver, used or factory built touring wheels is becoming too difficult so think I will go down the handbill root.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/kinlin-xr22t-rt-rims-in-silver-700c
Anybody used these rims? They will be the 32h version. Will they be as bombproof as the a719 rim I have previously ran.

Also, what price am I typically looking to pay for spokes / nipples / labour at lbs for two wheels to be built?

Those in 32 will be plenty strong enough, ask the shop but £60-£90 labour per wheel, spokes at RRP.

Cool thank you. They look like an ideal rim, especially if I ever go tubeless.

The ideal rim is the XR31 but it's close.

Actually I fancy their newer wider one but I don't need new wheels

I’m looking for a DT Swiss 350 28h CL 142 XDR, I can find a 240, do they make a 350?

do they make a 350?

Apparently so (ish...looks like you have to buy the XDR freehub body separately)

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XD, I think I need the XDR?

Yeah, see edit. There is an XDR rotor which fits, but it seems you have to change it yourself https://sharpwheels.co.uk/tools-accessories/xdr-conversion-kit/

Weird huh, seems better to go with a 240.
Maybe I’ll look at Hope for an alternative

seems better to go with a 240

350 +£74 is still going to be cheaper than 240? Depends what your priorities are, for a race bike you might as well go 240

apologies for my laziness but a few noob hub questions:

1) hope pro 2 front hubs with QR if they are 110, does that mean they are "boost"? does the boostness come from an adaptor (can it be converted to 100 thru axle)?

2) Chris king hubs, converting a rear to QR, or 20mm to 12mm thru axle ... is there a cheap solution?

cheers

1) 110 = boost. No, you can't convert to 100mm

does the boostness come from an adaptor

Not in the case of a properly designed boost hub. The point of boost is to extend the distance from the centreline to the rotor side flange to make the spokes more or less symmetrical. In the case of Pro2, the rotor side flange is 20mm off centre for the regular hubs and 25mm for the boost ones. Because the distance from dropout face to rotor face is the same for regular and boost hubs, you'd have to take the whole 10mm off the non-rotor side of the axle to make everything line up.

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100 = boost

Close 😁

FFS no time to proof-read! Will amend

Unless it's the old 110x20mm standard, in which case not boost.

Unless it's the old 110x20mm standard, in which case not boost.

But 110×20 hubs are not QR, and the ones which are convertible convert down to 100×5QR 😉

i'm very confused now.

in any case I lost the auction. I was mostly buying the wheels for the rims anyways. with the idea that I could sell the hubs on if I couldn't make them work.

I'm really struggling to find a pair of 26" rims with the right profile (~21mm internal, all black). I keep finding a single rim but never a pair ...

It was more making a point of the exception to the 110 = boost statement.

All seems moot now, but Pro 2 hubs don't appear to have been available in a boost width shell, Pro 2 Evo were. Pretty sure Hope didn't do adapters that would take a 100mm shall to 110 and qr (though they do 110 + thru options). Sounds like there's a bit of info missing or incorrect in the auction listing.

it may have been the evo. but its always good to know, anyhow.

there's so much stuff to remember about wheels, spacing/axle/holes. et etc.

my hunt for rims continues ...

What do you need exactly?

26" rims -- 21mm internal width. light. Sort of in the XC style.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/halo-vapour-26-559-xc-mountain-disc-rim-black-32-hole/ or whatever Kinlin that's a rebadge of