-
• #6677
Pffft
-
• #6678
I hope you never have to use it!
One of the ladies my girlfriend was riding with has had to have a full hip replacement after breaking the head of her femur off on a berm at the start of the Avoriaz Green-to-blue/red.
-
• #6679
.
2 Attachments
-
• #6680
You should strip and polish the fork lowers for an inverted two tone of big Madge
-
• #6681
Too much work, too much warranty voidance I'm afraid.
-
• #6682
RC295 frame is sold.
-
• #6683
Have I missed something? New frame?
-
• #6684
Yep, think my enduro bike, but a bit smaller and black.
-
• #6685
Always bringing the good shit. Looking forward to more shindigs.
-
• #6686
Some tools are bought, some are made.
2 Attachments
-
• #6687
Tip from a mechanic I follow on Instagram
3 Attachments
-
• #6688
The clamp around the dropper stanchion is giving me real anxiety
-
• #6689
I’ve fucked this up- how do I fix?
1 Attachment
-
• #6690
credit card to push bubbles out
heat gun to take it off cleanly and fix -
• #6691
Hairdryer and a squeeqee might get some of them out. I'd start again though.
-
• #6692
Pull the sheet off, re-apply with bank card squeegee?
-
• #6693
From videos that is correct.
Muc off have a good installation video
-
• #6694
Is that plumbers tape on the threads?
-
• #6695
Yes
-
• #6696
What's the advantage of it? It's not like it needs to keep pressurised water out
-
• #6697
First time I've tried it, chap who recommends it says the following:
The main benefit is eliminating wash out and sealing against contaminants. While you may use the thickest, heaviest water proof grease you can find on your BB threads, it's the bike wash/degreaser that enters your frame during washing through your seat tube, cable guides or any other frame holes that ends up sitting in your BB shell that breaks down the grease.
Teflon tape completely seals the threads from the inside and out and makes them water tight which is the reason plumbers use it to seal water pipes hence it also being called "plumbers tape".
It will also help dampen any noise and further prevent the BB from seizing and becoming stuck and if done correctly, will prevent you ever needing to service your BB again until the bearings need replacing. PS if you execute this well and your BB still creaks, it's not the BB. 😉
A few important details for installation:
Ideally start with clean BB shell and cup threads. If there is any factory applied preset loctite on the cups, it's usually fine to just tape over.DIRECTION: Apply/wrap teflon tape in opposite direction to which the cup threads in (so tape tightens and end of tape doesn't lift during install)
AMOUNT: Just shy of 2 layers is optimal. It's best to create a slight low spot (gap) rather than overlap the end and create a bulge in the tape. I usually start at a logo on the cup and finish just short of it (see pic).
TECHNIQUE: Wrap tight and push tape into threads with thumb and fingers by rotating in your hand the direction in which the cup threads in.
GREASE: It's still very important, mainly to keep the tape intact during the install. As always grease both the shell and cups to eliminate all the grease either getting pushed in or extracted out during the install.
Cups should still thread in quite easily by hand.
-
• #6698
My view = may as well give it a whirl.
-
• #6699
it's the bike wash/degreaser that enters your frame during washing
First mistake is washing your bike
-
• #6700
Presumably he teflon wraps every bolt then. And silicone seals the cable guide holes, etc.
This post got me really thinking over the last week. I've come back to riding MTB after 20years, have started hurling myself much faster down stuff much bigger than anything I could have done in my teens, except now I've got a family and I don't recover from injuries nearly as quickly
In a very sensible move, I've just bought myself a Fox Baseframe D30 chest and back guard