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• #37252
I originally asked the question. I bought panels from these guys
https://www.gardentrellis.co.uk/fixed with wall plates using this method
https://www.gardentrellis.co.uk/page/store/guides/face-fixing-for-trellis-and-slatted-panels
https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839hOn a slightly dodgy wall it was fine, even for an incompetent like me. Need small bits of wood to shim the wall plates though.
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• #37253
Yeah I won't be doing it @£100/m. Clay pavers would be my preference and they're about £65, so I guess it will have to work out about 1/3 of that at most to warrant the effort.
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• #37254
~£40/sqm for Indian Red paving slabs like https://www.pavingdirect.com/sandstone-paving-buff if you buy in bulk.
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• #37255
Aiming for a small unit as it'll be a winding path and I want the laying pattern to follow it, though looking again my local supplier does sandstone setts for about £40/sqm which isn't too bad I guess. It's the coping/edging blocks that seem to be silly expensive, though I could probably find a radius concrete edging for not too much
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• #37256
Anyone want any self levelling compound or 5.5 ply in SE?
I have 5 bags of Mapei Ultraplan 3240 25kg and 5 sheets of 5.5 x 1220 x 2440mm ply that i'll let go for cheap, £10 for each item?
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• #37257
Could any north east londers recommend a Roofer and someone who could do the groundworks needed to add some new drainage please?
Todays rain has highlighted some water issues for us!
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• #37258
These guys are meant to be good, although I haven't used them myself
https://horncastleroofing.co.uk/ -
• #37259
Anyone have experience with replacing an induction hob? I managed to smash mine yesterday - replacement now ordered but I'm not sure if it's just a case of unplug the old and plug in the new or if I need to get someone in. If I do need to get someone in, who? Is it an electrician or a handyman job?
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• #37260
Ours is just on a plug its not hard to fit but get someon to help with the trailing cable
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• #37261
Ta! I found out my neighbours son is roofer, so he's going to pop over tomorrow when he visits her and we'll see what happens
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• #37262
If it's a 13A one it's just plug and unplug normally. If it's more than that then it will need wiring in which I think (but someone else will know for sure) needs an electrician.
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• #37263
Good work on smashing it.
You'll need a gas safe plumber to replace it with a proper gas hob.
(I absolutely hate cooking on induction hobs) -
• #37264
As others have said, cable wise if it’s 13A and has a plug, happy days (provided it fits in the hole where the old one was).
If the power rating of the new hob is greater than the old hob, you may run into trouble as the existing supply cable from the fuseboard may not be big enough.What was the old one, what is the new one?
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• #37265
If it's not a plug socket version.
Isolate the electrics and then it's usually three bolts on the bottom of the unit to terminate the earth, neutral and live. Not a hard job.
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• #37266
Found this sitting in a boarded up fire place I unboarded and cleaned up. Any ideas what it's from or used for ?
Looks like it's from the chimney or from grate/fireplace but can't see anything obvious where it's come from.
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• #37267
Just looks like a fire brick from the back of the fireplace?
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• #37268
I still have 4 sheets of 5.5 x 1220 x 2440mm ply left, anyone want them for free? se4
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• #37269
Morning all,
A house we are in the process of buying has an en suite off the main bedroom that we want to get rid of to turn the space into a small walk in wardrobe. I've very little experience of DIY and just want to get a handle on how much of that would require paying professionals so I can budget accordingly. I'm assuming removing a bathroom suite (electric shower in cubicle, sink and toilet) needs someone who knows what they're doing to cap everything off etc, but after that am I also likely looking at plastering too?
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• #37270
I would budget for having to replace the subfloor / some walls too.
Very likely that water ingress has rotted parts of beams, floors etc unless it was perfectly sealed. You’d definitely need new board / plaster.
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• #37271
Thanks, I’ll factor that in.
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• #37272
If it was me, I'd probably want to just cap the soil/waste pipes in situ (just in case).
Any water pipes you need to cap at the t that feeds them from main circuit, to avoid getting dead ends, which can lead to stagnant water.
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• #37273
I think I understand what you’re saying, but anything that could involve flooding etc I’d pay a plumber to do. I’ll note the advice though and check they do so.
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• #37274
It should be a direct replacement I think, and it's a 13A plug. Both old and new are from Ikea and seem to have the same measurements. Being delivered tomorrow so we'll see how it goes, although my wife has already contacted the builder who installed the kitchen so it might be out of my hands. I'm not sure I deserve to be trusted with a hob anymore!
Thanks all for the advice.
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• #37275
Right, so I'm a bit annoyed ... I ordered some samples from a company for my fireplace hearth trim and when it was all good ordered the full 3m piece of wood (With £35 delivery) and then this is the different in colours between the two samples and what I've received ... I've been told this is normal and due to natural variations but it doesn't work with what I'm going to use it for.
Therefore, I'm looking for advice on what to oil/stain it with in order to keep the colour as light as possible to match the samples which match our shelves, any recommendations? If not I'll paint it the same colour as the skriting boards which my OH suggested but seems a shame.
Cheers. That's really helpful.
It's part of trying to work out how to better insulate the house before winter.