Any question answered...

Good point. Loft it goes.

Anyone seen this happen with a bb30 sram dub bb?

I installed the non drive side crank through the bb, as I have done hundreds of times before, axle greased etc, but as it popped through the drive side, this plastic bearing cover popped out with it.
It seems the bearings are actually just 30mm and this acts as a reducer down to 29mm.
No easy way to press it back in, its very flimsy and the plastic just deforms.

Fucking sram :(

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assume you've tried this already but slide it onto the crank then slide the crank into the bearing. the crank axle should support the inside of the plastic

edit: didn't realise on dub the drive side comes off the crank axle so ignore me

Yeah, thats exactly what I tried, I put it over the axle then tried to press it in from the drive side but it wont go on.

The dub bb's aren't supposed to be serviceable and these covers aren't supposed to be removable! Theres a lip on it thats making it impossible to get back on.
I haven't whacked it too hard yet, I'll try get it replaced under warranty since its only 8 weeks old.
Just a massive pain in the hole since I can't go on the ride I had planned for tomorrow.

edit: didn't realise on dub the drive side comes off the crank axle so ignore me

Nah, what you said made sense, I used the non drive side crank assembly and put it through the drive side of the bb just to see if I could press it back in without too much force but it wouldn't go in easily.
I'll go back to it later, kid's are just back home and they are making it difficult for me to concentrate...

Silly question but why are you replacing the BB after 8 weeks?

@rhb thankyou

I wasn't replacing the BB

Sorry, just twigged what was going on..

I haven't whacked it too hard yet

Well, I went back and whacked it a bit harder and the plastic cracked.
I guess zyro will take delight in saying its my fault now

I get the impression from their dedicated team of SRAM warranty people that they are used to SRAM warranties. I think there was a job going in Windsor a year or so back for said team, I'm not sure I'd have wanted it. Try your luck.

It’s not entirely a SRAM thing. Quite a few of those bigger diameter hollow axle setups have that plastic top hat bush to there take up the slack. Shimano and Race Face external bearing BBs have them. Otherwise the axle would rattle about - it’s like a cheapo way of making a tight push fit that you can’t feel moving around.

Yeah, I really meant the sram tech centre, I think its some sort of zyro/sram partnership?

To be fair though, my actual experience of sram warranty has been reasonably good over the years. They seem to opt for replace instead of repair most of the time, at least that was the case with all the early reverbs I had. Even the axs one was just replaced with a new one. It makes you wonder what the actual cost price per unit to sram is when its more economical for them to just replace an axs post instead of repairing it.

It makes you wonder what the actual cost price per unit to sram is when its more economical for them to just replace an axs post instead of repairing it.

It's not so much that the flyaway cost of a new one is so low (although it is) but that taking apart and then reliably reassembling modern manufactured goods outside the original production environment is really expensive.

Otherwise the axle would rattle about

I'm just thinking aloud here really and kind of answering my own questions...

It seems like they have used 30mm inner diameter bearings for the new 29mm DUB standard. Indeed, the top hat takes up that 1mm. But why not use bearings with a 29mm inner diameter?
I've seen it mentioned that its better to have the top hats since the sram axles are aluminium and you don't want the hard steel races eating into the axle. I suppose that makes sense.

But then I've used cannondale si cranksets in bb30 with aluminium axles on steel races without any problems. Although the cannondale axles are replaceable parts, whereas the sram axles are bonded into the crank arm.

I dunno, I just can't help think that the plastic top hats aren't great. I'd imagine that the plastic parts would wear down too and create a bit of slop. Maybe the bearings would wear before the top hats?

Do Shimano hollowtech bb's use the reducer top hats? It's been years since I've held one in my hands.

but that taking apart and then reliably reassembling modern manufactured goods outside the original production environment is really expensive.

Absolutely. Having some poor bastard sitting doing the 200 hour service on reverbs day in day out wouldn't be economical.

Received a lovely 1952 Singer electric sewing machine. Works fine but smells like a 1952 warship’s machine room. I can’t find a straight answer on google: how can I get the smell out? Do I need to disassemble it?

The oily smell seems to come as much from the metal machine as from the wooden case, I think, can’t smell it properly anymore. There’s no felt pad that the internet says might smell. I’ve already opened up the head, and the moving parts are dry as a bone, have removed and cleaned what I can, and will lube before use (trumpet valve oil is probably light enough, no?).

Any action is 100% mine to own, just need info please. :)

Do Shimano hollowtech bb's use the reducer top hats?

Yeah but they're so much better plastic everything works out fine (everyone has a spare BB to hand so when your problem happens and can't be fixed as mentioned a new one is cheap and easy).

Aye, I google imaged a hollowtech bb after posting and seen that the shimano version of the top hat thing looks a lot better than the shite sram have.
I then remembered the fact that I used Hollowtech bb's for at least 15 years and never had any problems with them!

I used to be such an avid Shimano fan, yet all my bikes now run sram. I don't know how I got here.

how can I get the smell out?

The typical machinery smell is oxidised oil (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rancidification). The only way to get rid of all of it is a full degrease. It might be mainly concentrated in the hot areas around the electrical components. Realistically, ain't nobody got time for stripping a Singer and getting it fully clean, so you might as well learn to love the smell.

trumpet valve oil is probably light enough, no?

There are specific sewing machine oils available from any sewing shop or online market place for much less than trumpet oil https://www.google.com/search?q=singer+oil

ain't nobody got time for stripping a Singer

After all that, I did some sums and after the mod I would need to make to the frame, likely prices of second hand mechanical stuff, I reckon if I can sell 1x Rival HRD shifters for a decent wedge I might as well go for Rival AXS, a derailleur and shifters w/out calipers ~£500 as I've got everything else.

Ah I see a pertinent piece of information I left out here is that the Judge has issued the court order without a hearing. So we both had to submit our evidence by a deadline date. This is why I'm unsure if I can submit further evidence now. And I won't get a chance to explain in court.

My 1956 Singer (99K) smells of old oil and pipe smoke when the case is lifted off - I'm fairly sure with mine it's mainly from the inside of the case, less so from the inner surfaces of the wood base, neither of which are varnished and so are slightly absorbent.

It's very much the aroma of the previous owner's workshop - I'm expecting it to wear off after a few more decades.

Thanks Gbj_Tester and MrE. Did some light degreasing listening to a podcast. Hopefully takes the edge off the smell.