To all you sewing lot...

Or buy a cylinder arm synchronised binder, it makes binding a doddle.

Finally managed to get mine set up properly, took me a while to get the timing right after installing the binder bits. There's just a weird thing where the stitch length gets shorter the faster I sew. Temporary solution is tying the stitch length lever down with a piece of string, but I need to get up inside it to figure out what's going wrong. There's a wishbone thingy part with a cable tie around it, I reckon that's a good place to start.

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Thank you both @moog and @Tijmen! I will continue handstitching my binding for now then.

I wish I could own one or two nice industrial machines, but unfortunately, as someone trying to work in academia, I'm bound to live in an apartment and to switch countries quite often, so that is out of the question for now. Having two bikes and the tools to maintain them is enough of a constraint already.

@Tijmen, I will probably PM you later about that foot :)

As Tijmen says, the last one looks great. It's easy to be highly critical of your own sewing, but have you ever properly looked at the stitching on branded stuff? It'll be janky in places too.

Trying to start sewing, as I want to make some useful bike bags. Just made a pouch following Mack Workshop's video, which actually turned out OK I think! However, my sewing machine (just one a found in the loft) isn't very happy, especially when sewing through multiple layers. Is there a recommended sewing machine that you can get for cheap. I've heard Singer 201k is a good start?

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I’ve read a lot of positive things about the Singer Heavy Duty 4423, but it would be worth trying something like a size 100 jeans needle in the current machine and see if that helps. I’d also up the stitch length a good bit.

Pouch looks great though! Good choice on the purple xpac too, I’ve been using it loads lately and it’s just lovely.

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Your stuff is amazing! Thanks for the advice. I have no idea what I'm doing, and the needle was just the one on the machine when I found it. Will get some new ones and figure out how to increase the stich length

Freecycle; anyone interest in a Brother LS14s domestic machine? It’s very basic/plastic-y, but simple & easy to use. Ideal if you’re just starting out, or you’ve got kids interested in learning to sew.

I’m in SE22, can deliver in local area, or you send me postage label and I’ll pack & post, cheers!

Brother LS14s

If you get no-one local I'd be happy to pay postage. My partner has been sewing a bit more lately and is fed up of our hand-wind 1930's Singer. She borrowed a Jones one off a friend but we should return it really.

check the box on the left front side of your machine.
all the additional small stuff gets stored there, maybe there are some better needles...
got mine 2nd hand and there was plenty of usefull stuff in the box.

@rhb ace, all yours :)
Weight is under 10kg and classed as Large Parcel by Royal Mail, so postage looks reasonable - just message me to arrange

Ace, will message, thanks.

I need to buy a no8 water resistant zip but can't find one anywhere. Can anyone recommend a supplier in the UK please?

Size? Open end? https://www.profabrics.co.uk/products/ykk-aquaguard-no-5-water-resistant-open-end-zip

Size 8
And yes open end preferably.

Edit: unless you mean length instead of size. In which case about 45cm. But these are usually by the meter

Any advice on best practice to sew the "spine" of a frame bag? My two side panels are done but my first attempt at sewing them together with a single strip went poorly. I tried to follow Mack Workshop's video but he seems to be doing way better in angles than I am. Here are the problems I encountered so far:

1. Fabric is bunching up a lot on the angles. Should I cut a pattern into the strip to ease that? How far in? My seam allowance currently is a very conservative 1.5 cm as I was afraid to fuck up.

2. How do you close the strip once you've gone all the way around? I don't care to leave an opening like Mack Workshop does, so I was just thinking of leaving some extra fabric and simply stitch the two ends of the strips together at the end?

I'm wondering if sewing 4 straight panels on each side of the panels like they do on bikepacking.com (instead of a single strip), then stitching them all together at the angles would make my life easier. What do you think?

(I'm using VX21.)

(edit : removed my comment about the length of the strip, apparently I can't do math)

I've had best results using 4 separate panels rather than one long strip

New project... tried to make a handlebar bag based on my carradice, but a little lighter (made from xpac) and a little narrower. Made a few mistakes but all good practice!

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struggling to find a stockist for these. tri glide with chest strap slot

any leads?

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25mm available here, never used that seller mind: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114597125636?hash=item1aae855e04:g:S38AAOSwliVf6E-z

Slot in version here: https://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/itw-sternum-replacement-split-bar-34-x-1-21696-p.asp?v=0&variantid=21698

Marvelous, thanks

Been looking for these for ages. Thanks!

Whenever I do a reverse stitch longer than a few stitches, my top thread breaks. Is that because that's not really what a reverse stitch is for?

IANA Sewing Machine Tech, but there’s no reason why it shouldn’t; the needle/thread feed remains exactly the same, it’s just the feeddogs (the moving serrated teeth in the base) change direction to feed the fabric the opposite way

Does is the needle size appropriate for the thread and fabric weight? It might that in reverse, the thread is being directed away from where it’s meant to be/has more friction/catching into the bobbin shuttle, and causing it to break over a few rotations.

The channel in the needle allows the thread to sit flush, whilst the needle pushes through fabric, and there’s little/no friction on the thread. If the needle is too small for the thread it will catch, and is most apparent as large loops on underside of sewing, but might also cause this loop to catch in the bobbin shuttle …just an idea!

Great work!

What material did you use for binding (?) the flaps on this?

Would anyone here be up for talking about a commission for a boot liner? Think a big tub, about 1.2 x 1m, made from Cordura or similar and with pockets to support it from a metal frame and a couple of zips?

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