Miche Pistard 2.0 & Pistard air cranks

Has anybody managed to remove the logos from these cranks? I tried some nailpolis remover Acetone, but it didn’t seem to do anything.

I arrived here via a search on installation of the Pistard 2.0. I'm using an brand new Ultegra Hollowtech II BB and did have to coax the DS spindle in with a rubber mallet. The only EVO Max BBs I could find were not located in the US (where I am) and much more expensive than a HTII. But, it looks like the EVO Max BB uses a "compensator ring" between the DS bearing and shell. I may install a spacer here because as it sits the chain ring shelf clears the DS chain stay by about 1mm, perhaps less. Steel Gunnar Street Dog frame so I'd think flex when climbing standing or sprinting is going to happen.

Anyhow, this NDS spindle is requiring a lot of force to go on. So, I stopped pushing the issue and arrived here in searching for similar experiences. Everything is well greased, but the steel spindle is deforming the female splines on the aluminum NDS spindle.

Pic 1

Pic 2

When I was installing NDS in my Pistard 2.0 it was requiring about 30Nm to move up the spindle according to the torque meter. I haven’t taken it out yet but I guess it may have damaged them like yours, how did you get on with the installation?

Unfortunately the chainring bolts are catching my frame (Moda Forte) does anyone have any ideas, I’m using the Miche Evo Max BB BSA and have installed the spacer on the NDS as indicated by the manual.

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I ended up removing the crank and BB and installing two spacers totaling less than 1mm between the shell and DS cup. This allowed the chain ring shelves on the crank to clear the DS chain stay and I've had no issues in a few hundred miles of riding.

Do you have two spacers between the shell and NDS cup? If so I would try moving one to the DS cup and that should give you the clearance you need. If it's just a single spacer then I would find two separate ones that makeup the same width as the existing spacer and put one under the DS cup.

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Is the crank/axle interface for the Pistard Air the same as Shimano Hollowtech2? Or Miche specific?

I want to add a power meter, but want to keep the Chainset. Rather than power meter pedals, I wondered if a Stages/4iii left hand crank (Shimano fitting) would fit?

^Same as HT-II

@Lima, did you manage to get this clearance issue sorted? I'm putting together an almost identical build.

Added a 1mm spacer, works fine, I’ve ridden on velodrome a few times now

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Excellent. That's put my mind at rest as I was concerned about buying the wrong crankset.
Cheers

Did you compensate by taking 1mm off the non drive side?

Nope, I did as normal recommended set up, just added the 1mm spacer on drive side

Ah that's good news. Many thanks for the info.
BTW, did the Miche BB come with the spacers?

Cheers, Jon

Hey all. I've seen a couple of photos of Pistard 2.0s with what appear to be 5mm thick chainrings. I can't figure out how the mechanics put these on - potentially filing the hidden spider? Any ideas?

do you have pics ? the hidden 5th bolt in the crankarm usually is super long, so thicker chainrings should be no problem. and many chainrings have recessed bolt holes, to allow the use of normal chainring bolts.

So I think it's more that the body of the spider sits flush with the top of the Miche chainring at the moment - so it would need to be filed to make more space (if that makes sense).

Pictures are below - both appear to be Alter chainrings, which are 5mm according to Alter.

Picture 1
Picture 2 :

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alter rings have recessed boltholes too

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• alter_apollo-1.webp

Interesting - the spider seems potentially wider than those bolt holes though?

See here

ah okay your concern is the thickness of the spider arms if I understand correctly - I actually never thought of that issue - opposite to the pic I'm running a F5 chainring at the moment and had no problems so far

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Yep exactly. How thick is the F5?

will measure when I'm home

The other piece of the puzzle is this photo - using a 5mm chainring.

I have that chainring and tried fitting it, and the hidden spider was too thick. If you zoom in, you can see that there's a slight lip of the chainring on the 4 normal spiders, because the chainring is slightly thicker.

So it looks like it is possible - but unsure if I need to take a grinder to the spider or not.

i measured 4.8mm thickness for the f5 chainring

Thanks! And it went on no issues?

I realised I could fit this one on if I clamped down the bolts to bend it... but that isn't a good idea

but that isn't a good idea

Neither is grinding a crank spider.