Home DIY

Is the dip local? IE is the general run fine? Then a joining bracket at that point should do it.

There is a joining bracket there - it looks like it's been fixed lower than either side.

I would say that the brackets to the left of the circled joining bracket are also a little high but that might just look that way because the bracket is so bad.

If you want a quick and dirty fix add some sealant to the joint; CT-1 or similar. Won’t stop water pooling but it will stop it leaking.

That's what I've done, along with repositioning the guttering as it wasn't overlapping enough. I'd say it's stopped 90% of the water but definitely isn't a long term fix.

Looks like the union has been fixed low, or not at all. Pop the gutter off either side, put a straight edge spanning from the nearest brackets either side of the union, it should be in line. If it’s not fixed, screw it on. (4.0x30 stainless or similar)

I presume the developers have left the site? Without trying to be an arse, maybe approach them - new house should have a warranty.

They left 2019… 😬

Out of 3 yr NHBC warranty which should have covered this sort of thing so on me.

Fair enough. I did think the warranty was longer than three years.

10 but 3 for things like guttering

Every days a learning day.
Good luck with the repair - be careful on the ladder - top tip!

Thanks. Times like this I wish I’d bought the 4 rung instead of 3 rung platform ladder.

You might get away with a platform. Screwfix have them for about £40 ish I think.

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This alternative has an 82mm backset which might be a compromise:

With a case depth of 101mm. How will that suit the dimensions of the stile and centre rail, considering there's probably going to be some damage done deeper than the case depth.
Filling the holes left for the original key and spindle will probably be a bit awkward and the plugs may come out due movement in the future.

I've got the whole of a 3-bed house to paint imminently - after getting tired of using a roller in about 15 minutes, now looking at possibly using a sprayer.

Any recommendations/go-to ones? I know the Wagner airless ones look very good, but are a bit pricey (though i'll look to buy second hand and then re-sell to be honest, so if they're miles better I can be convinced).

Spraying isn't as painless as it sounds. You'll need to spend four or five times as long prepping the place vs rolling.

A lot of painting jobs can be made infinitely better by using better paint / equipment.

Definitely - for what it's worth the house is essentially empty at the mo, more than happy to spend time masking as what i've done of that to date (repainting all the external window frames and sills) is far less physically exhausting than using the roller (100% with poor technique!)

I looked in to this. I have experience of small scale spray paint application with airbrushes / hvlp guns / cans and masking with tape / liquid mask.

Spraying paint is a bastard, unless you are really good at spraying paint. You become really good at spraying paint by being really bad at it until you learn to be good at it. It's painful. The equipment is also spendy and challenging to keep working. Masking is also hard work and troublesome.

Then you need someone to follow the gun with a roller so to add some texture to the wall you are spraying.

It's not insurmountable, and if you go through with it you will learn a lot. But it's unlikely to be faster / cleaner / less agony than brushes / rollers the first time you do it. The second, maybe.

Our new place is lined with lining paper. When we fit new windows the reveals will have to be replastered and patched in. Might also be some chasing etc needing filled in.

Do we need to strip all the lining paper and start again, or can plaster play nicely with the edge of paper?

Strip the nearest whole drop of paper then re paper after plastering? Or cut the paper with a knife and strip back then re paper?

So this is the bit of OG wall we share with next-door. As you can see their half has come to bits.

I was thinking of fixing this for them as they have a lot of problems at the moment, and this is one they could do without.

Reckon it's fixable in an evening with bag of the right adhesive?

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Just discovered some small (10cm) rips in the roof membrane, we will have to replace it in the near future, but is there a tape to patch roof membrane that you would recommend? Not sure of what it is, apart from the fact that it is old, black and the weave is really visible. Is it worth getting an specialist product or shall I just go for black cloth tape? Just roof tiles and membrane atm, no isulation, no use for the loft yet apart from some boxes

I bought a wagner 350 pro extra thingie. Used it once. With an empty house I'd imagine it would be worth using but at a room a time and living here. Nope. I'll be moving it on as soon as I can get my arse in gear.

I used my skills learnt in masking to now do a better job of that with the roller

Is it letting water in? Why bother?
I still have the original roof on with no membrane - tiles straight onto batons

I'm not sure if such a product exists but if it did you'd want to put it on the outside of the membrane otherwise you have water pooling on the adhesive which would cause it to fail pretty quickly.

Most of the cheaper membranes break down and lose their water proofness eventually anyway (the claims of the more expensive ones are dubious as well) and are there to let damp air out rather than stop water getting in.

In your situation I'd make a note if where they are and if the roof starts to leak investigate those areas first.

No water, as far a I can see. I’ll keep an eye on it, thanks @musa and @Bobbo