Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

EC90 seems to be a brand name for a line of garbage components on Ebay. Note they don’t mark anything as “Easton”, only “EC90”.
I bought a similar stem years ago. It held the handlebars at an angle for a few days then the bolts let go.
Not recommended.

can I ask whats the point of this? still needs a cable to come out and enter the frame unless there is a hole in the steerer

I can't understand how it isn't obvious that if you have a choice where to add weight, then it goes in the bottom of the seat tube or thereabouts.

Ha, sarcasm has been lost in text here :) I know this ec90 shite very well.

Yeah it’s pretty daft. I think these steerer tube stashed kits were originally aimed at the mtb market.

Is the weight really much of a consideration here? The battery really isn’t heavy!

I can't understand how it isn't obvious that if you have a choice where to add weight, then it goes in the bottom of the seat tube or thereabouts

Why stop there, you should really have all of your gears near the bottom bracket.
Right @BareNecessities ?

It's the only way to live

Batteries in steerers are so 2021.
Multi tools in steerers are where it’s at.
Even Colnago.

Multi tools in steerers are where it’s at.

You sure?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CckhAbnrNAY/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

This is one for @hippy as I know he has got this to work, but anyone else welcome.

Trying to set up an 11-42 cassette with shadow Di2 ultegra mech and the b-screw is at the wrong angle to get it far enough back. What do I have to do with it to make it work?

11-42 with a standard Ultegra mech is stretching it. A Wolf Tooth Goat Link will give you a fighting chance of making it work.

So is your b screw fully in with no more adjustment?

I could put the wolf tooth back on but 42T does work with the new ultegra mechs without it.

It's just the angle that the b screw is at when fully in means it misses the bit that it needs to push on.

One workaround that I might do is put the screw in the other way round which would probably work, as the head is wider than the tip. Just wondered what those who have it working do.

Actually, I just went back out and put it fully in and it does work now. Last night I just looked at it and thought it looked unlikely but didn't actually do it!

My concern is that the screw is only just touching the metal by the skin of its teeth. Maybe that's ok...? Or better to reverse the screw?

Edit - I've no idea where the union jack carrier bag visible through my spokes came from!

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I've solved this problem before by putting a nut on the end of the b-screw. I actually went through the probably unnecessary effort of filing a little wedge out of aluminium and then tapping a hole in it so that there was even more contact with the 'tongue'. Something like this:

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It won't hold with that much contact.

Good idea.
I've stuck a nut on it and it looks a lot more likely to hold. Thanks.

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Sorry, was out enjoying Santa Maria. Not flipped the B-screw but maybe one of my bikes was touch and go so I did something funky but I can't remember what it was (probably the older RD style with a 36T on the Kinesis). Most of mine were probably hanging on by the skin of their teeth but that's been fine. :) The Mason has a pretty chunky hanger.

Jolly good, even you need some time off from forum tech support!

It's not the hanger that the screw grips on though, it's the extra wolf tooth-like bit of the mech. Good to know you've had no issues, however. I'll leave the nut on and it should be fine.

Oh yes, I'm thiking of the older style without the extra linkage.

I remember having issues when I built the bike up at the start of TCR7. The thing went through all the gears once and then wouldn't work. Eventually pulled the RD off and reinstalled it and it worked fine. I think what I'd done is screwed it onto the hanger and missed the extra linkage bit on the hanger stopper, ie. I'd screwed it down below the stop and so it was totally out of position. That's all I can come up with. I'm very careful screwing the RD back on when I travel now.

Just had a look. The angle on yours looks a lot less, so it's getting less contact. Something to do with the frame design I guess. Both the Kinesis and Mason have more contact with the Shadow linkage than your pic shows.

I do run my jockey wheels as close to the cassette as possible (none of this 6mm bullshit).

OK, makes sense, thanks.

I'm getting a very slight chain rub on the front mech when I'm the lowest gear.
Low limit on front mech is out to the max.
It's a GRX chainset and ultegra front mech, I guess I either just live with it or get a grx front mech.
Actually, no, that wouldn't help as it would be further out and rub more. Maybe it's inevitable with 30T inner ring. On my frame, anyway.

Depends where it rubs and how much, but you can try rotating the FD slightly, or bending the inner plate slightly (if you're sure you're on the limits)

Yes, it's a tiny little rub. I might be able to rotate it as there's a bit more space at the high end. I've put up with worse, though.

It's packed on the car for holidays now so it will have to wait!