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  • Checking valve clearance is relatively straightforward - I was taught the EOIC method and it seems to work on everything. Basically, when you see the exhaust valves opening, check the intake valve clearance, when you see the intake valves closing, check the exhaust. I rarely have to adjust intake valves but exhausts can tighten over time, hard starting if nothing else is wrong can be a symptom.

    If the valve adjustment is done by screw and locknut, you're golden - it's as easy as undoing a locknut and just turning the screw enough to create a little drag on the right size feeler gauge. Then doing the locknut up again and rechecking.

    The other method is bucket and shim, more complicated as you have to measure the clearance, then order the right shims to get to the correct value. The tricky bit, is you have to remove the cams to get to them - not the end of the world but does mean you have to be very careful getting the camchain back on correctly so the (cam) timing is correct.

    Expect bucket and shims to take 3 times as long easily if you need to make adjustments, and you'll have to order parts too.

  • Whatever is says in the manual - usually cold for bikes, though I think hot is more of a thing with cars.

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