-
• #23902
I suppose the only question now is what colour hope bits I should get to make my black frame/blue fork combo look even worse?
-
• #23903
Red anodised parts will always make things worse
Gold will make everything better
Edit - except for Kashima fork stanchions
-
• #23904
There is nothing wrong with anodising. Multiple coloured anodised parts even better.
Just not painted forks. They look silly -
• #23905
Does anyone know much about MTB suspension?
I'm running a Pike Select fork (black, not blue) with 120mm travel. Looking at the o-ring after recent rides it seems that I'm only using around 80mm travel.
From memory I'm running about 80psi but RockShox recommend about 100psi.Does anyone have a foolproof way of setting up forks without resorting to getting a Shockwiz?
-
• #23906
What trails are you riding? I'd assume you're just not riding anything that requires much travel.
Have you added extra volume spacers in? You could perhaps take some out if so.
When did you last get the forks serviced? Perhaps they're sticking a bit, if it's been a while -
• #23907
Let out all the air, see if you can bottom them out. If not, they might need a service/less tokens/a combination of both
-
• #23908
The trails I've been riding I'd expect to use a bit more travel, they're the kind of trails that I'd bottom out forks on when I had my previous XC bike with 100mm forks.
Forks were serviced last year but I'll try letting the air out to make sure they aren't sticking.
Will have to check tokens as I can't remember er how many, if any, were in there. -
• #23909
Does anyone have a foolproof way of setting up forks without resorting to getting a Shockwiz?
Ignore sag, use natural frequency. This guide explains it, but essentially it's "if it feels right, it probably is"
https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/technical-support/setup-suspension/suspension-setup
-
• #23910
The pressure is a good guide to start with but set them up with a third sag and do some tweaking on a ride. Or repeatedly huck to flat with 5psi less pressure each time until your fork or your knees bottom out.
-
• #23911
Does anyone know much about MTB suspension?
This guy does:
-
• #23912
Cor, that looks fucking brilliant.
-
• #23913
I don't suppose anyone on here (and in South UK) has - or has had - a Geometron G1? I'm starting to think I'd like one and wouldn't mind sitting on one, but I'm a long way from their HQ
-
• #23914
I've had a few drinks and thinking I need a bike that's far more capable than I am
-
• #23915
Welcome to the club
-
• #23916
Also, blue is the only colour to get that SID in.
-
• #23917
this is my shifter and I have i-spec ev brake levers
-
• #23918
Cheers, shame about the rider at the moment!
-
• #23919
I just put it on with the normal ring, seems more robust.
-
• #23920
I just put it on with the normal ring, seems more robust.
But depends how much you crash on zwift?
-
• #23921
But depends how much you crash on zwift?
with new steering control in Zwift, every marginal gain matters!
-
• #23922
-
• #23923
Tremendous! Right up my street
1 Attachment
-
• #23924
Blue SIDS are the only ones. Black ones may as well be a Reba.
^ this
-
• #23925
I don't really want to ask these questions, but now I can't let the thoughts go:
What's the correct placement (within it's travel) of a dropper seatpost when not in use? Should it be stored compressed or like a torque wrench uncompressed? (Edit: i sort of know the answer to this and therefore the next question is a leading question)
And when taking photos of a MTB with a dropper where should the seat post sit? I've seen people slam it (@Dammit eg.) which I can't get my head around... Is that to show how gnarly it is? Or should it be fully extended to show actual amount of travel and rider fit? Obvs this doesn't actually matter but I keep thinking about it.
1 Attachment
Feeling attacked right now