Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Wont look great, but how about:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pauzle-Extender-Adjustable-Aluminium-Mountain/dp/B08BL46GFJ/ref=asc_df_B08BL46GFJ

Yeah, no kidding. Thanks though.

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Ah shit, I've only got a black and decker.

Was hoping to avoid drilling but suppose it might be the least bodgy option

About to chop this thing. To confirm, the steerer bung adds about 2-3mm, and I want 3mm clearance above the bung to clamp everything down. If I'm running a 5mm spacer, my best bet would be to but flush with the top of the stem? Sounds about right or do I want to go just below the stem by 1mm or so?

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Flush

If in doubt cut it too long. They’re easy to make shorter but remarkably hard to make longer

My hope cranks we’re working fine and then gradually over a few minutes of riding became stiffer. To the point that they don't spin unless you use considerable force. I rode around 8 miles before this happened.

Any ideas, suggestions?

The cable guide on bottom bracket of bike has managed to snap apparently. It’s an older canyon ultimate (al f8 frame) and it looks like canyon have stopped selling replacements. Does anyone know if these sorts of parts are universal because I’ve seen a lot of similar looking ones for sale but can imagine they won’t work for canyon because they like to be special like that (sorry for the awful quality photo)
Cheers

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Pretty standard. Some frames (especially mountain bikes) have ones that are 'deeper' to allow cables to clear the frame but yours is straightforward.

Preload nut cinch bolt not tightened properly and the preload nut has tightened further the more you pedal.

So you think I would just be able to use a replacement like this;
https://www.bikeparts.co.uk/products/shimano-sm-sp17-m5-bottom-bracket-cable-guide-for-40-mm-diameter
Everything this bike has taught me is old canyon liked to be obtuse haha 1 1/4 steerer, slightly smaller diameter external seatpost etc

Yes

Buy some hollowtechs?

Sorry but Hope stuff does sometimes seem to be over engineered/complicated just for the sake of it.

Marked it flush, cut and noticed it was about 1mm lower. I hadn't taken into account the thickness of the cutting blade, one of those ones specific for cutting carbon. But, all good, fit's nicely and bearings pre-loaded as designed. Cheers for input

I've got the below campag cranks but in compact version:

They are in theory 110bcd—can I replace the outer ring with any 110bcd ring? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the 5th bolt is offset by a couple of mm or something stupid.

Nope you can't use regular rings. Specialites TA does good quality rings for campag. I think it's Solano and nerius 10 for compact 10s but check the website for compatibility.
https://specialites-ta.com/
Stronglight do them too. Original campag rings are very pricy.

cheers, a pain in the arse as I expected!

What are you after? I've got some spare rings knocking around.

Flat mount to post mount disc brake adaptor.

Sorry if this has been asked before. I have a flat mount frame and have attached a post mount adaptor to the frame to allow for my post mount caliper to fit. I'm wondering how to align my disc brakes with the rotors, as there are now two places for the caliper to move.

1. By the adaptor moving in the frame (the mounting holes are oval allowing the adaptor to move).
   
2. By the caliper moving relative to the adaptor.
   
   

If anyone has doke this before and has advice, I'd be eternally grateful.

Thanks

centre the mount as best as possible then adjust by the caliper moving relative to the adaptor. If only because those bolts are easiest to reach with the wheel in (assuming you're grabbing the lever then tightening the bolts to centre it)

Yeah, do both.

.

I was just installing a >2015 SR front derailleur and the clamping bolt kept turning without clicking at the recommended torque of 7nm. I smelled a rat so backed the bolt off to remove the derailleur and check it over and the threaded insert had come detached from the derailleur loose hence the lack of tightening. I’ve installed many Campagnolo front derailleurs without issue so is this just bad luck? I bought the derailleur second hand but it looked to be in very good condition and not at all cross threaded and when I was tightening the clamp there was a nice and positive feel just like you would expect. Is it possible to have a new thread inserted? In the photo you can see how the insert came out - the derailleur is clean as a whistle inside where the thread once was.

Xenon brifters. Will they play nicely with post-mount yoke-type canti brakes, as opposed to the normal side pull calipers?

I'd imagine so, moreso they're the shit kind of cantis with some pull adjustment with the straddle length/height rather than the other shit kind without as much.