Home DIY

When I did mine I used a stiff wire brush to get rid of the loose bits. Wasn't a perfect job but it was so rough that scraping or sanding would have been a real ballache.

Work in progress.

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That tends to be the approach when you lack experience!

123 is a very thin primer/undercoat. It's designed to grip the substrate and provide good grip for the next coat. It's a bit pointless using 2 coats because there are more opaque undercoats available which cover and level better.

AllCoat seems particularly transparent when it's wet. Usually after a couple of days it's a lot more opaque. There's not a high solid content because it's designed to dry quickly so loading it on the surface doesn't work that well. Easier to do 3 quick coats than fanny around laying on thick ones. I don't usually need 3 coats with the white gloss though.

Okay thank you, I might do that as well. I'll admit I CBA getting all of it off considering it's mostly not going to be noticeable at all.

If there are some really noticeable bits missing I might use a bit of that Toupret filler but that's about it.

Can anyone advise if there’s likely to be anything mechanically in this middle bar? They’re double glazed UPVC sash units. I’ve attached these blinds using super stick double sided tape but they’ve started to fall off. I’ll either drill them in with self tappers, or fix them to some aluminium profile and glue the aluminium to the window.
I’d prefer to use self tapping screws than piss about with additional bits and bobs but don’t want to drive the screw into anything important (including the glass!)

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You'll have mastered it by the time you've done the whole lot.

6 down, 5 to go. I used LG exterior eggshell for the top coats, which is a dream to work with. Something to look forward to as you go through the prep and priming.

Had a pipe removed from our brickwork and I’ve finally got around to bricking it up. Some bees have been looking at it as a potential new home. Felt bad not letting them in.

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There are lots of great options for the top coat these days. The prep is always the worst bit. Sometimes it seems like it will never end.

Any tips for polishing this up?

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Something like Brasso, assuming you aren't going to be polishing it too frequently.

I think I did that before, with a rag and hours of labour. Is it wise to try and do it with a pad attachment to a drill? Or is that likely to just leave loads of concentric rings all over it?

Dunno, sorry.

If it has become tarnished again really quickly maybe it needs some kind of finishing treatment.

It's probably a good five or six years since I did it. All I remember is that it took bloody ages to get the tiniest patch looking bright and then realising I'd bitten off a bigger job than I realised.

You can get buffing drill attachments for detailing cars, imagine they don't leave rings - possibly worth a go

Brasso liquid not the wad (wad is good for small jobs and keeping up a decent finish).

Clean it all first with something to get any gunk or grease off it. Dry it. Tape off area around so that it doesn't stain. Brasso juice turns anything black fairly permanently.

Would use a fairly aggressive cloth with brasso liquid first, white cotton dish cloth, the foam part of a dish scrubber (scotch pad side prob too aggressive) or even get a 'magic eraser' and work away at it. Have found doing a little work on the whole thing then letting it sit for 10 mins helps.

Brass thins and wears away over years, mostly from traffic and polishing. Have seen some clear lacquer coats put on heavy wear areas before and without fail it blisters and looks rancid. The best finish is a good smooth even polish all over it, metal should be fairly glass like in feel. Salt from boots in winter is defo worth wiping off as often as possible.

Looks like brass, if it is Id probs use fine wire wool first to clean it up before the brasso.

I can't quite see from the photos but is it possible to lift the gate off its hinges? I ask because that's how thieves gained entry to my place a few years ago, even with a padlock. When I went to the local hardware store to get 2 stout brackets to put over the hinges, the guy in the store just said "Break in through the gate did they?" apparently it's a thing.

Tidy work by the way.

is it possible to lift the gate off its hinges?

Not now that I've rounded the fuck out of the rusted nuts. Fort knox it ain't, if someone wants in, they'll get in. Idea is to just deter the "I wonder what's down there?" crowd. For everything else, there's insurance.

Has anyone had experience with having work done on grade 2 listed building? Need to replaster a few damp-damaged walls and no idea if need approval or not.. Heritage England aren't super clear. Assumed not but the plaster guys said in some cases you need them to approve materials used.

Would like to know if process is a beaurocratic PITA

Talk to the Listed Property Owners Club: https://www.lpoc.co.uk/ (much more responsive than HE).

In general like-for-like is permitted without prior consent, but you must avoid removing old paint/materials wherever possible.

Listed Property Owners Club

golf club²

Took a few days off work this week to re-do my garage workshop now we’ve lived here a few years.

I have broken many eggs and now I’m making some omelettes or whatever.

Done electrics and tool wall, tomorrows job is the mitre saw station and smaller bench on the right hand side.

Don’t think I’m going to get around to fitting out some drawers for the systainer / dewalt boxes so that’ll be another weekend.

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I'd definitely miss the extra front straps/storage pouch that you get on the normal pack tho. Very handy for bundling a bulky powertool in.

I dunno what pouch your talking about, mine doesn't that i dont think. The back of it is more open than with the organiser so i can get my multimeter, wee tub, gas gauge in it which im not sure i could with that one because of the design. Looks fuckin cool tho