Home DIY

Kitchen light flickers lots when switched on. Toggling switch can make it OK. Same with different bulb. Likely to be switch problem? I can swap like 4 like if so?

Only concern is it is the wiring to the bulb, but surely that'd trip the fuse?

The weight of 18mm ply boards always surprised me.

Sounds like a reasonable diagnosis. If it wasn't the switch, why would toggling it make any difference.

They are relatively easy to change.

Thanks, I've changed a couple before (not this one) so will get a new one and give that a go.

I have the following bits and bobs up for grabs if anyone wants them?
Free collected from Catford.
(Most of a) roll of weed barrier and 27 staples
12 x Blum soft close hinge thingies
New chrome cylinder pull
New Kitchen sink waste

New Vonhaus manual tile cutter

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New Vonhaus manual tile cutter

I'm in catford and will take this if it doesn't go but in the interests of attempting not to hoard all the things, if someone else can use it then please do. I will, at some point, be attempting to retile things, but not just yet.

I’m sure this has been asked before but has anyone got a plumber / boiler person that they’d recommend who’ll cover SE4?

We need someone to take a look at our boiler which seems to have developed a leak.

@Trunkie I could use the Blum soft close dampers, PMed

12 x Blum soft close hinge thingies

@Bobbo and @Airhead any recommendations for interior wood paints? We are looking for something with good coverage and minimal VOC content and low odour for nursery furniture. What are your thoughts on these:
https://frenchicpaint.co.uk/collections/nursery-furniture-paint
https://www.lakelandpaints.co.uk/wall-paint/nursery-paint/nursery-paint/
https://www.farrow-ball.com/our-finishes/interior-wood-metal

I have heard and read good things about the frenchic paint - I was going to use them but ended doing something else instead

You are spoilt for choice these days. I would start with Zinsser 123+ primer/undercoat, then coat of system undercoat from whichever manufacturer you settle on. 2 other good manufacturers are :-

Little Green
Benjamin Moore

If you are going to a decent supplier like papers and paint in Chelsea they can advise you regarding the latest alkyd paints. They are very expensive but are the best water based paints I've used so far. Not brands I recognise but there are a few coming through with near perfect paints. Benjamin Moore are very good too.

Then decide if you brushing or rolling. I'm settling on rolling for eggshell acrylic these days.

+1 on little green.
Edward Bulmer another one to check out.

Thanks @musa @Airhead and @danb

I'm struggling to come up with search terms for what I'm looking for to fix this sink tap. Not sure if just a nut on the thread would be enough to be able to align it or there's some other type of connection or tap that allows the tap to always be upright when the wall connection can't be altered.

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I often have to install taps that have that same setup (wall plate and tap that screws into it), and have the same problem but it’s much less of an issue as a temporary water supply on a building site.

My guesses would be using a nut as a lock ring like you suggest, or to get an oring/gasket that sits inside for it to tighten up against.

@konastab01
Veto pack ordered! And the knipex Bix too. I’ll let you know if it’s any good (I think it was you who asked about it).

Best way of covering screw heads in MDF. Had some pipe work boxed off with MDF and wish to paint it but want to cover up the screw heads which are countersunk a couple of mm. Screws are Timco velocity.

Just a bit of polyfilla type filler and sand smooth?

Polyfilla makes a MDF specific filler

Toupret wood filler works well. Comes in a tub or tube now and is already mdf coloured. Overfill and sand off when it's fully dry.

So far I'm seeing loads of PTFE being used but I can't see it lasting. I'll try a plastic washer as well or as you say, an o ring. The fit needs to be tight though to stop it being turned the other way.

I think I've a tub of that in the shed, the Yorkshire in me might resent spending much to hide 6 screw heads :)

2 part filler gets used a lot, loved because it dries in seconds. It's just unnecessarily hard to sand flat. Normal decorators filler does work but it's softer than wood filler.

unnecessarily hard to sand

Not just to sand flat. It takes an age with hand sanding, with a sander it just melts and clogs the paper. It's REALLY not good for you (carcinogen) it has been strongly linked to COPD in car body workers and trades that use it regularly.

jfc... that was much harder than it should have been. Now how do I sort it out?

Want to have a smoothish alcove to put a fridge in (boxed in with space for the doors to open etc).

The remaining painted (lilac gloss, thanks previous lunatic) plaster is all sorts of angles where it was slapped over the shelves. Do I just take it back to brick? Or if plaster can go on top of it, prep how? Sand it to rough it up, fill in the deep bits with 'something' then pva-ish? It's an internal wall. You can see some bits of wood in there for some reason (that wall backs onto the main hallway and is v. thin - one brick I'd guess).

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Knipex cobras are class unless you ask my dad he thinks they are utter shite. Lol