Home DIY

I did a lot of shopping around a while ago and that Ryobi was well reveiwed for it's price. I ended up going with the Draper as I got a good price at the time and it looks identical to a lot of other budget brands (likely same factory), and don't have anything Ryobi so it would have been new batteries either way.

No idea about battery adaptors though I'm afraid.

Fitting new window day. Suns out old shite is out.
So my stone aperture is 1075mm wide, and very square. Window unit is 1065 wide and pretty damm sqaure.over the height its all good.

Option 1) install similar to before, with the front face of the window unit just touching the stone surround, fill with 1 or 2 cubic metres of silicone some nails and scarper. Means the cill unit sits up on the original stone part designed for sliding sash. But means I have to make something to support sill.
Benefits, gives more stone surround visible from street.
Negatives, harder to fit, more chnace for water noise and weather too get through the tiny contact patch with surround. Harder to secure.

2) move cill unit onto tilted ledge of stone surround, cill unit fits perfectly the angle of dangle there and sits perfectly flat (the face for window to sit on). Means front edge of window unit will be where tape touches surround 40% into the stone, leaving only 60% remaining visible from thr Street.
Positives, easier to seal, easier to fit and secure, more options for panelling inside out easier to insulate internally, less faff with cill level and secureness.
Negatives, less stone visible from street *

• so most others in same type of building are option 1),and they all look shite as the stone edge crumbles away over time more and more silicone and upvc face sheet stuck on top to seal the gap up.
  
  

So I'm wanting to go option 2). But need to check there if not some reason no one else does this

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I've used that and wasn't impressed. Ryobi has a tendency to pay YouTubers etc to use their tools as well as paying for reviews so I'd be sceptical of any review you read. In general nailers are expensive because there is some serious engineering that goes into them, when they go wrong it can be spectacular and can potentially be very hurty.

The good news is you don't need a nail gun to do skirting. Countersunk and filled (filler in MDF plugs in wood) screws work well. You should always be using gap filling adhesive anyway (gripfill is standard but also shit), so spend a little more on something like ct1 / ob1 / sticks like and you can put them up to the wall and tap them on with a hammer and a block so you don't ruin the finish and you should be ok - this works particularly well with sticks like turbo that goes off in 15mins.

Our bathroom has two brick walls (one external w/window; one party wall) and two stud walls that were lath and plaster (one adjacent to kids' room; the other w/door out to the landing).

I've taken the stud walls back to the studs - is it worth insulating these two?
(NB. will be using insulated wedi board (i think) on the brick walls)

I second this.

Just pulled down a false ceiling to be confronted with these. Is there an easy way to tell whether they have asbestos?

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when they go wrong it can be spectacular

My second fix Paslode tried to shoot a triple shot yesterday. Sparks and smoke, but no big boom.

Temperamental fucker though. Too hot, too cold, too upright, too upside down. Gas too old is my latest bugbear.

It's not that expensive to get someone to test.

If you search the homeowners thread I think I posted the Co who did ours.

https://asbestos-surveys.org.uk/

These guys did our house and then it was removed by these guys

https://www.bestenvironmental.co.uk/

Temperamental fucker though.

They can be. Gas guns need regular cleaning, fortunately as a cyclist you'll have plenty of disc break cleaner handy to do this. Just remember to use the right oil.

I've never heard of one shooting multiple times though. European laws mean that no explosive nail gun (gas or powder) should be able to shoot again until the trigger is released.

Okay that's fair enough and definitely rate your feedback on this. Will proceed with either finding someone else to do it or go ahead and do the same as last time with the plugs and screws.

Thanks for the advice on the adhesive though. I used grip fill last time and found it awful to work with and didn't want to go with that again!

Thanks @stevo_com for your thoughts too!

Second this. Have found many ryobi tools about on level with diy shop own brand, and not up with the big players like makita, milwaukee and dewalt

I've never heard of one shooting multiple times though

Not a triple shot full auto style - It shot 3 nails in one go. Properly jammed everything up too.

If you're South, you're welcome to borrow the Draper

https://www.toolstation.com/draper-d20-20v-cordless-staplernailer/p82005

top tip indeed, thanks. the paint has blistered well on the reverse side,
next coat of nitromors i will do the clingfilm wrap after the first scrape through.
there is +100 years of paint on this door and others. Hadn't appreciated that doors may warp
in my case the stiles and rails of the panelled doors are pretty solid 44mm thick

Get it tested, but it almost certainly contains asbestos.

Anyone have issues using 18mm MDF for garage storage? I've got some time off in a few weeks and am planning to remake my garage workbench to make it more useful, including drawers for dewalt & festool systainer boxes.

Garage isn't insulated so wondering if, over time, MDF will swell with moisture changes or am I just overthinking it?

Really want to avoid ply as it's still so fucking expensive.

I wouldn't use it for that. The MDF will absorb water from the air, it won't blow but it will over time become more flexible and sag. If you really have to use MDF it would need to be sealed with paint or polyurethane varnish.

Edit - ply has come down in price of late as long as you don't buy birch or from somewhere like Wickes where it always has been eye wateringly expensive.

Tinfoil is better

I think i said it was march till may. Makes me want a new one, just because its got a freebie with it but I need another tool bag like a hole in the head.

That’s what I though. Was hopeful as I have a few sheets kicking around.

Ordered 4 sheets on 18mm hardwood ply from builders depot delivering Monday. Still nearly £200 with delivery.

When I went to Selco ply wasn't much different to mdf pricewise. Not super fancy ply or anything.

Get it cut to size in store and put on the car roof.

Also in terms of swelling, imo it depends what bits you're using it for surely? If it's just the top, sealing it isn't a big thing anyway.

Anyone have issues using 18mm MDF for garage storage? I've got some time off in a few weeks and am planning to remake my garage workbench to make it more useful, including drawers for dewalt & festool systainer boxes.

My workshop bench is partly made from MDF. I made it about 20 years ago and it's lived in an unheated lock-up garage and my garage for all that time. The main structure is made from 2x2 pine, but there's MDF panels to make it rigid, and the top is two sheets of 18mm MDF covered in a sheet of stainless steel. It's still going strong.

Either I'm getting different prices because of my account or you're paying enough for delivery that van hire for an hour or two would make sense.

Also B/BB grade for a workbench seems overkill. Softwood should be fine (I realise the stuff at BD is not just a hardwood veneer as is the case more often than not) and is £6 per sheet cheaper.

£55 delivery. Ended up just ordering 6 sheets as it was the same delivery cost. £250 all in.

I’ll end up using them for a few more projects on the list.