Mudguards

You're welcome!
I just saw they have metal guards in 559x60 as well. Might be worth getting some for my dad bike.

Trying to install a set of 45 Bluemels, ran into a tiny problem. My brake bridge has the hole on the wrong side.
I believe there's no way to attach it without drilling a hole into the mudguard. Am I correct, what do you lads think? Or P clamps?

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I would def drill a hole into the mudguard!

The most secure/best looking option is popping a hole in the fender.

Cheers guys, will do that then, appreciate the quick replies!

Fitting chromoplastics looks like I've done something wrong. The mudguards don't follow the wheel do I have to cut the stays, what with? Best way to measure and cut?

Edit: removed that last question as it's the same as a few posts up!

Pics to illustrate my fail.

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you can slide the stays around in the clips on the mudguards, so just position them first and then cut whatever sticks out, with a dremel or similar.

Loosen this screw:

I see what you mean remove the little black plastic tip, loosen bolt, adjust then trim. It didn't seem so obvious for some reason. Thank you.

If you don't have a dremel and are brave I think cable cutters work as well.

Bolt cutters are quick and quiet, ask anyone who's carrying one on the street...

Bolt cutters work well but be careful about the tip of the stays pinging off, I nearly had an eye out first time I tried it!

My mudguard troubles continue :

1°) Is it possible to slightly re-radius stainless steel mudguards? My Berthoud fender cracked at the seatstay due to poor installation on my end. I had put it under tension with the stays instead of re-radiusing it by pulling the edges outwards, as instructed by Weigle et al. (I was actually removing the fender to do so when I noticed it was already cracked).
I tried my hand at re-radiusing it after the fact, and it wouldn't budge. In your experience, is it something you can't do with stainless steel mudguards due to the ductility of steel? Wondering if I should buy aluminum mudguards next.

2°) The eyelets at the seatstay bridge and chainstay bridge are pointing towards the hub, like on fancy custom rando bikes. It's pretty, but as someone who periodically removes mudguards, it's also a pain in the ass, as I have to clean every eyelet with alcohol then slather every bolt with loctite everytime I put the fenders back on, to make sure the bolts don't rattle loose.
I'm thinking of having the holes drilled throughout, so I can put a nylstop nut instead of relying on loctite. Aesthetics aside, is it a bad idea?

See the pic below for a better idea, though I won't put a pretty wingnut.

1, yep you can by squeezing or stretching them, I think velo orange have a good tutorial on it.

2, I've never loctite mudguard bolts, and never found they've come loose. I've also never cleaned an eyelet tbh.

Should I be doing that? Never had any trouble when removing / installing guards over the years. Then again I mostly just leave them on even in summer, good for the dust etc.

1 -> That's precisely what I tried to do, I know the technique, but it wasn't doing anything to my stainless steel mudguards. Was wondering if it was because of the material (all the articles about re-radiusing mudguards talk about aluminum ones, whether from VO or Honjo), as I feel I put as much force as I could trying to spread the edges apart.

2 -> Mine have been terrible, they'd rattle loose if I didn't clean the eyelets before using loctite again (I assume that the residue from past application of loctite prevents the new one from sticking to the eyelet correctly). I don't remove mudguards too often, but it's happened enough times that it's an annoyance.

I've used loctite and spring washers, as I had a mudguard come loose once. It hasn't happened since.

Yeah I've been decently happy with loctite once it's done, it's just that the whole process everytime I put mudguards back on is atrocious.
Not sure where I was going with my question actually, I think nobody has any practical experience with radially-oriented eyelets going all the way through the bridge, I've only ever seen it on Weigle's bike shown above.
I'm mostly concerned whether a nylstop nut will work as well as loctite : I've never had any problem with nylstop nuts on horizontal bolts, but these vertical eyelets on my bike (both at the fork crown and the seatstay bridge) have proven to very prone to rattling loose.

I have that kind of eyelet on several bikes (Pelago Stavanger, Intec M10 and the wife's Omnium CXC)
Imo it works brilliantly.
If you want to avoid the loctite I'd just substitute the washer for a spring washer.

Spring washers don't do anything appaz

Also:
https://www.boltscience.com/pages/helicalspringwashers.htm#:~:text=They%20are%20still%20used%20on,of%20loosening%20in%20many%20cases.

That's interesting!
I've bought a box of different sizes and types, and I'll just use the external tooth type in the future.

You could give wedge locks ago. They’ve never come loose on my automotive uses.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lock-washers/9143351

Nord lock also good (but relatively spendy) :)

edit: they look very similar to what Chaley posted

That has been my short-lived experience with lock nut washers.
@Chaley and @MCamb : are they reusable? I also assume that they would require digging a bit into the mudguard, not sure how that'll turn out after a few removals.

@MisterMikkel : I won't disagree that once slathered with loctite after a proper cleaning they're very pretty and work ok! It's just my experience that, if I don't go through the painful process of cleaning every single eyelet with a q-tip and alcohol, loctite won't work.
I have had at least 4 or 5 rides where, despite loctite, if I didn't clean the eyelets before applying it, bolts came loose (once or twice they even started rubbing on my tire). I'm not too keen on trying to increase the sample size, so I'm looking for a better solution :)

Have you tried plumber's tape?

I have not but it looks even more annoying to reapply than loctite :)

it doesn't require cleaning, just wrap a couple of layers around the screw (in the correct direction) and bung it in again.