Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Interesting, you’d think DCR would have an exclusive on those, but perhaps it expired?

Personally I’d buy them via DCR if you can, as I’ve always found them to be quality builders and helpful generally.

It's the same guy I believe, he also imports Bitex hubs. Think they're manufactured by Eternity Rims. I've been happy with the two pairs I've built up.

I'd forgotten about Eternity rims... A few of their offerings are a little different to the standard Kinlin fare (yes, I know, why would you want anything different...), eg the 34mm deep one. Are there any known importers for the wider range? I want to say @broken_777 might offer them?

I'm currently stumped by some 12mm end caps for some Prime Audax 650b Dynamo Wheels...

I bought them off here and the seller had switched them round to QR but lost the 12mm end caps. I ordered the correct 12mm end caps from wiggle but can't figure out the rear drive side cap.

The axle is wider on the drive side than the non drive side and the end cap doesn't fit (non drive side fits fine (using either end cap). The axle doesn't seem to be removable either...

Is it supposed to just be loose and then secured by the cassette lockring / thru axle?

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Picture of the old QR end cap and the new 12mm one. The QR one is wider and thus fits over the axle...

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I need to build up a 27 x 1 1/4 wheel (630 ERTRO) and I'm after some unfussy but decent quality spokes, the problem is that I need quite long ones (299-301mm or thereabouts), and a lot of places have quite limited stock at that size for plain gauge spokes. Best bet at the minute looks like stepping up to a Sapim Race from @cycleclinic. Before I do, does anyone know of suppliers of something like the the Sapim Leader at a good price that I may have missed in my ad hoc googling?

your lbs should be able to sort you out, most spokes come in about 300mm uncut to the shops and they usually cut them to size for the wheelbuilds they're doing. and most of the online shops should stock them in that lenght as well.

Cheers, yes they probably can, but I don't think they'll be cheaper than just going up a price point up to a double-butted spoke from somewhere that actually has the stock. The availability is not ultimately a problem, it's just that I can't quite source the spokes I need to do this at the budget I want (it's a relace, so I want it to be pretty cheap). So I guess the question is "where do people buy their spokes from, so that I can shop around properly"?

Cyclebasket have ACI DB spokes listed as in stock up to 304mm.

could consider lacing 2 cross instead of 3 to make sourcing spokes of the right length easier?

https://www.spokesfromryan.com/product/sapim-leader-silver-j-bend/

I’d rather use butted ACI or Pillar than plain Sapim for similar money.

Cyclebasket have ACI DB spokes

Should be in the FAQ, it's usually the right answer for budget builds

Thanks for this, I've ordered some up.

Anyone know where i can get wheels built for £4o or less and cut spokes for me? Condor cycles do £35 per wheel and 80p spokes which is good price but they waiting list is a month away. (current wheels are fucked from crash so semi urgent)

sam x

https://wheelbuildingwitharup.co.uk/prices/

If you're in London, Arup can do spoke cutting/threading.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/spokes/120-jtek-14g-black-plain-gauge-spokes-12-mm-black-nipples-pack-of-6/
Up to 310mm black or silver

Thank you @sbbohr @mustardbeak

Thanks, but that's still 67p per spoke (plus P&P), which is substantially more than Sapim Race double-butted spokes from cycleclinic and than the ACI spokes from cyclebasket.

The other thing which should be in the FAQ is that if you really need plain gauge spokes, you'll know why. Price is not a good reason to substitute PG where DB would be better.

How important have people found it to build rear wheels with plain gauge spokes on the drive side and butted on the non-drive side? Some people say it's key to building a balanced wheel, but I'm not sure how essential it really is.

We used to do it, now hardly anybody does. If you're that close to being short of axial stiffness that you're about to resort to PG spokes, it's better to revisit the spoke count.

I've got some DT Swiss R460 rims en route to me, I can't see anything (on the listing on Bike24 nor on DT website) about nipple washers for these rims but I know that some of the DT Swiss rims benefit from being built with them.

I think because the R460 isn't a superlight rim it doesn't need them but can anyone confirm that for me?

I've built mine (2 sets) without washers and no problems so far.
I've read somewhere that only the more expensive DT Swiss rims which use a different alloy than the cheaper ones need the PHR washer. But don't quote me on that.

When looking at the DT Swiss website, you can see that for both the EX 471 and the RR 411 it says "Non eyelet PHR" whereas it only says "Non eyelet" for the R 460.

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Do people generally expect spoke tension to drop slightly over the first few hours of use as a wheel beds in and a degree of natural stress relief occurs? Do you usually revisit your wheels for trueness and tension after they've bedded in a bit?

yes, this is to be expected. most ppl re-true / re-tension after about 100km of use.