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• #252
Thanks!
TIG welding is a bit tricky
Don't say that... I've been trying to decide whether to weld or braze for the last 6 months. I'm almost certain that welding is the way to go - cleaner, safer and more 'appropriate' for the style of bike I want to build. But I can only afford to pick up one method, at least to start with, especially as a TIG setup seems to be about twice the start up cost of brazing, and I know that the learning curve is steeper.
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• #253
Welding is easy enough, but getting good looking a durable welds does require practice. It all does.
I am struggling a bit pushing my tig welding that bit extra to make it pro, but I know what to do, i just can't afford it.Either way you will have fun
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• #254
Having tigged a fair bit now i love it, welding is my favourite bit of building a frame. When everything is flowing nicely and you know youre laying nice beads its extremely satisfying.
However it takes a fair bit of trial and error to get it right. Building up the muscle memory to do it nicely takes a while, but i think its worth it for sure. I cant imagine brazing and having to file/sand every joint it would double the time it takes me to build a frame hah.
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• #255
But that is also rewarding and becomes faster with practice ;-)
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• #256
to be fair the small amount of filing/sanding of fillets ive done has been very satisfying
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• #257
I'm happy to get stuck in sanding and filing - but the more I think about it the more I realise that TIG is where I want to end up, so I might as well start with that. Thanks for the advice, both.
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• #258
Question, if I space my dropouts to 142mm, I can with Paragon inlets go down to 135 mm OLD (and QR)?
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• #259
If you mean these inserts then I suspect you are probably right as the qr ones seem a lot flatter which would account for the difference in width.
I wondered at one point if I could do this with my Kona Unit which is 135mm qr and I believe the Unit X is 142x12 TA and the frames look pretty much identical. The inserts are a bit pricey and I kind of went off the idea so I never got round to trying it.
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• #260
Thanks! I'll give it a try if the place where I'm going to for the framebuilding course says it's ok and can source it.
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• #261
Might be worth firing paragon an email to ask them if the inserts do indeed account for the spacing.
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• #262
They usually have technical drawings for the parts in pdf format. Should be obvious from them.
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• #263
Seems that the information was there if I looked
"All our Sliding, Rocker, and PolyDrop dropouts can be converted from a 10 x 135 mm to a 12 x 142 mm hub. It is as easy as switching out the 135 x 10 mm inserts for ones that are compatible with a 142 x 12 mm hub."
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• #264
First go on TIG. This could take a while...
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• #265
After some advice - I'm about to go down the custom steel disc fork route and I'd like to spec the fork crown as I really dislike the aesthetic of either segmented or the traditional U shape.
I looked up Ceeway and found this:
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• #266
Is there anything I need to consider/alternatives that would look more like a traditional horizontal crown?
And how much clearance would you subtract from the wheel size specified above or does that include mud?!
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• #267
I think that one fits a 2.0" tyre max. I think I have a photo of it actually
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• #268
I think I have a photo of it actually
2" tyre is ideal - if you have a photo that would be great.
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• #269
PS will need a stem at some point...
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• #270
This tyre measures 50mm bang on.
What sort of fork do you need? I got this going spare. No dropouts in yet yet and 220mm 1 1/8" steerer.
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• #271
That would be ideal, although I wonder that a 44mm headtube measuring 170mm might be a bit tight..
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• #272
yes. If external cups you'd need 250mm steerer.
Another thing. 44mm head tube and skinny cast fork crown might look that nice imo
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• #273
I agree, I'm probably after the impossible ie a wide cast fork crown so the transition doesn't look weird
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• #274
Maybe a custom bi plane thing? Or fillet brazed segmented? There are different types og segmented forks and some look better than others
TIG welding is a bit tricky as it. Small bits that heat easily with small edges is trickier.