Any question answered...

What are the circled / highlighted bolts in these clamps called?

Also does this type of clamp have a name.

While procrastinating, I finally got round to trying to clean them. A first bath in acid has shown the bolts(?) are fucked and need replacing.

Cheers

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I know those as engineers clamps, but according to Google it’s a toolmakers clamp. Can’t help with the bolt, sorry. I’ve only seen them in those clamps. You could probably replace the right-threaded one with a normal bolt or studding but I seem to remember they have a plain bit at the end.

They appear to have various names including hand screw, parallel screw and toolmakers clamps.

They made up of two jaws and two screws so no particular name if you are looking for replacement parts.

It’s the same set!

I gave up on the front brake outer last time I worked on these as I couldn’t get a gentle enough bend for the front brake to actually work!

Cheers all.

Think it could be ceased anyway, so probably not worth the bother. Or as I may have to drill out anyway I guess I could chuck a normal bolt in there.

I have the Park internal cable set- it’s very useful for pulling cables through.

In SE23 if that’s useful.

Park internal cable set

Definitely use this, all my annoying attempts were using this and they were still a pain, trying without would be horrible, also useful are a spoke as a hook and old inner cable to route first then route the outer over, a third/forth hand tool to hold said cable tight to force the outer through some sections.

I need to fix a plastic car head badge to a plastic grill.

The plastic badge is flat, the grill slightly curved. The 3m tape that came with the badge was not up to the task.

Id like to glue it.

Glue needs to dry clear, be weather and shock resistant.

What glue should I use?
Thanks

Silicone sealant.

I need some sort of 27.2 clamp which woulf fit in a vice to hold a seatpost in place.

Was thinking of milling an alumium block then chopping it in half.

Is this the best way or there's something out there?

27mm Forstner or spade bit through a block of wood, cut that in half and sand as/if necessary? Might be cheaper than aluminium unless you have access to the materials and equipment

Is this the best way

It's a pretty standard way of making custom soft jaws.

My new Cotic frame has a small hole on the bottom of the wishbone and another one behind the bottom bracket shell, between the chain stays. Both would be really useful for mounting mudguards but surprisingly neither are threaded. What's the easiest way to add a thread, is it something someone who's not particularly handy/DIY inclined could manage or am I better off paying someone to sort it?

Screw + bolt? Might be there’s not enough material to make a thread safely.

Fit threaded inserts. You're probably better off getting an LBS to do it for you, as it needs a tool that, unless you are into regular mechanic-ing, you're unlikely to have much use for. The tool in question doesn't do anything other than fit threaded inserts.

That might be the best thing to do! I'll see if we have the tool in our workshop at work, if not I'll find a shop to do it. I think @Howard is right about not wanting to remove any material from the frame in those areas but I'm hoping that even a thread for a smaller bolt, fitted in to the existing holes will be fine for the purposes of stopping a plastic mudguard rattling. It can't do any worse than the cable ties currently in use.

The wall thickness of the tube, as @Howard states, is almost certainly too thin to tap any sort of useable thread into it. It is the reason why threaded inserts exist.

Got you, I didn't make myself very clear but I think you're right that a threaded insert, rather than threading the existing material is the best bet. Thanks for the advice!

I have a riv-nut tool Loz but it’s the really long one, I’ll dig it out and look up the dimensions of a M5 riv-nut

Beagle?

silicone sealant

I tried that and it pulled away.

M5 nutsert uses a 7.1 mm hole

If you fit nutserts use aluminium ones as they are easier to "set" than steel ones.

I'm surprised. And apologies for the bum steer.

Nice! I'll measure the holes and see what I think will fit. Hopefully see you soon!

Two things I've used which should do the trick.

1) Wickes clear instant grab adhesive: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Ultimate-Instant-Grab-Adhesive-Clear---290ml/p/214517

It's quite thick, a bit like clear silicone, but it's far stickier and adheres really well. You'd be able to make a fillet in the gap, smooth it off with something and it'll stay put. It cures hard but tough. I've got it holding up all sorts of fascias and trims round the kitchen and I'm pretty sure it'll be fine on a car badge.

2) Bostik clear glue. I'm pretty sure this will do the trick, but you might struggle to get it to neatly fill the gap.

Don't be tempted to use Araldite. It doesn't stick well unless your surface prep is impeccable, in my experience, and it's very brittle. It'll also decide to run out the gap before it has finished curing and leave you with a skanky epoxy slime mark. You might get away with Double Bubble, it's a bit tougher than Araldite and nowhere near as yellow.