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• #277
Does anyone have a Shapeways account and want to refer me with their code? $15 for you in credit, 15% off for me.
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• #278
Here you go SQRJCQ
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• #279
Thanks for that
It’s not working at the moment but I’ve emailed their CS, not the end of the world if it’s not applicable to my order but hopefully they can do something.
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• #280
Does anyone have experience 3d printing with titanium?
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• #281
I have a monoprice maker select plus that I would like to giveaway to someone who can get it going again. One of the drivers failed (I think) and its been sat in my work shed ever since. I would say it needs new electronics but it's got a beefed up frame and an upgraded e3d hotend.
Upsides - it's free
Downsides - needs collecting from outside notts -
• #282
Newb question: How easy is it to 3d a copy of a existing physical object? I have a simple car headbadge I'd like in another colour.
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• #283
In my previous job I would get prototype impellers for vacuum cleaner motors printed at materialise in Ti / Aluminium.
What do you need to know?
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• #284
I'm pretty sure there is an iphone app that can do this, but dont know how well it works
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• #285
Lidar scanning software that works with the modern iphones is only really good for scanning quite big things, like a room or a car.
Lidar doesn't have the accuracy for reverse engineering small parts.
@sacredhart can you share a picture of the badge? if it's not too complex it might be relatively simple to reverse engineer with verniers and CAD.
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• #286
The problem is getting from the scan to the model. I’ve made scans with an app called Heges which gives relatively good resolution models but the surfaces are never complete and often there are multiple surfaces which makes it a real pain to translate into something printable. The main thing I’ve used it successfully for is scanning difficult geometry I wanted to build something to interface to (e.g. the fiddly fins / ribs on a big peli case - none of the surfaces are parallel as it’s moulded so it was nice to be able to scan the relevant bit and import it into Fusion360 so I could measure everything and build some thing that would sit nicely on the features).
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• #287
For a newb, probably not easy. For a pro*, fairly straightforward with access to the item or (less sstraightforward) decent photos and dimensions. That said, it will vary a lot depending on the badge.
Would a respray not be an easier way to effect a colour change?
*that's me
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• #288
You need to post process your scan data with another piece of software to make it more usable, we use polyworks at work but there are a few more affordable options
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• #289
If anyone could use some 3d modelling, give us a shout. Am usually up for a challenge.
I'm all about polygons and subdivision surfaces rather than CAD, but the results print identically.
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• #290
Hello, looking for some advice.
I am quite tempted to get a printer to play around on, certainly not for any commercial reason.
One of the first things I would be interested in printing would be some display stands for my lego cars, was thinking something like this
Do you think this is the sort of thing a beginner could successfully do with an entry level printer? If so what is the cheapest but acceptable printer people would reccomend?
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• #291
Those display stands are relatively straightforward: You'd need to dial in the settings a bit to get the Lego studs fitting nicely and there might be some overhang where the wheels go but should be fine.
The printer I have access to is an ultimaker 2+ which are not cheap at around 2k. I'm not sure what other machines are out there.
I'm isolating right now but in a few days I could do a test print and see how it comes out.
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• #292
Thanks!
Yes, I did wonder if the lego stud bits might prove the trickier bit. I guess that is why they are not relying on studs to hold the actual car. I'm happy to attempt some trial and error to dial it in, but assume there is an approach to this to follow.
Sadly I think £2k is out of my birthday budget! more like to be taking a zero off that! -
• #293
I would look at an already assembled model if it's your first one and check if there are forums or
reddits for that model so you can ask questions if something goes wrong.
Not recommending this model in particular just that kind of style. Maybe watch some
reviews to get a feel for what the issues with various models might be. There always are some. -
• #294
Brilliant thank you. The idea of an already assembled unit sounds like a good idea to me.
What are peoples thoughts on new vs second hand? do they wear out quickly and therefore second hand is a false economy? I was wondering if there are people who buy an entry level then move up quickly and sell on.
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• #295
Been really happy with my FLSUN Q5 which looks within your budget. Reckon it would do a fine job with those lego stands.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FLSUN-printer-Auto-leveling-200x200-printing/dp/B07ZZ3CG9V
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• #296
Thanks, that does look exactly like the sort of thing I am looking for, how straightforward was the setup?
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• #297
One thing to think about is bed size/height as that will limit what you can print (or how many copies you can make at one time).
Also filament rolls last forever but if you want to have multiple colours/types, then the cost adds up. -
• #298
Is this the same one? So cheap!
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• #299
Blimey that does seem cheap!
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• #300
Lego is notorious for dimensional tolerance, most 3d printer, fdm type, at the budget end will really struggle to make studs that work. Resin maybe but not really familiar with them.
If your on a budget buy the smallest build plate that does what you need it to do. Bigger on cheaper machines = more room for error.
I have an older ender 3, has enough mods to make it useful (repeatable results and decent speed) . Stock it would work, but drive you insane with issues
Update on printing, to silicone moulds, to soap
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